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A new one is £21 from Caterham and it's straightforward to fit. You will need a ball joint splitter though. If you count the number of threads showing carefully you should be able to put the new one in exactly the same position as the old one - if you don't you will need the camber checked/reset.
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What are my options to fix this myself?


Not sure what you mean.

If you repair yourself, It's simply a matter of buying a new ball joint and replacing it.

Involves unlocking big lock nut on ball joint. Undoing the small nut on the ball joint. Splitting the taper joint to remove ball joint from stub axle. This is the "hard" part as taper is often tight. Some use various combinations of nuts and bolts to prise the ball joint out, but my preferred method is to undo the small nut partially leaving enough for joint to split without falling apart. I then use a ratchet strap (fastened to a sky hook [rafter in the garage] and the other end on ball joint) to put tension on the joint. I then give stub axle around the ball joint a good crack with a hammer. Space is limited, so sometimes I use another hammer as a drift.

Then remove the ball joint and measure how many turns to remove lock nut or measure, to ensure new ball joint screws into wishbone same distance.

Assembly is reversal of the above except that to tighten small nut on ball joint you may need to put pressure on top of ball joint to seat it on the taper. Achieve this either by standing on it (when wheel on ground) or using a ratchet strap to pull down towards bottom wishbone.

I could probably have done it in the time it's taken me to type this. 😬


Edited by - Paul Richards on 19 Apr 2011 13:18:28

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It's not recommended to hit one hammer with another . . . I know, I know, I too have had no problems yet, but one day . . .


Wind on full lock to get room to swing hammer, or get a suitable drift (1" square length of metal - I use a lump of brass). Might take several good cracks. While it helps to put some tension on it to pull it apart, it will split the tapers anyway. I usually hang onto the upper wishbone with my none hammer hand, so that ends up putting some upwards force on it - I too leave the nut on a turn or two, simply so I don't fall over backwards when it comes apart 😬.


To tighten the new nut - spin up up fast with an air ratchet, or move a normal ratchet rapidly. I did once have to do a preliminary run down a suitable bolt to relieve one particularly tight nyloc.



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Just done this, mainly because the rubbers were split. i unscrewed the nut under the joint until it was just coming off the thread, i then used a piece of ali tube that was around the diameter of the thread, cut this to a length to fit under the nut and on top of the spindle area, then as i undid the nut further it poped the taper out. worked a treat. I guess the ali tube could be substituted for a nut and bolt. i have found the best way to get the lock nut in a similar position is to take the old joint out with the lock nut slackened to a very minimum, then put the two joints together back to back or top to top and mark the position of the lock nut, then swap the lock nut over, best if you have a spare lock nut. Have found the threads to be inconsistent on batches of joints so think this can be a bit safer than counting threads.
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Thanks guys, several options to go for then but I think I will pick the tool to do the job as its only a few quid. I will most probably do both sides at the same time just to be safe.


Bricol - Mythbusters busted that myth so not a problem about hitting one hammer with another.

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