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Posted

Of all the 7's I've had I've never had to replace a battery, but the new car, due to doing nothing for a long period of time will need a new one I think before I take her out when the weather picks up.

 

So it's the bog standard Banner 53034....simple job. Saw them on Ebay and other outlets and it's classed as "dry cell"..........I then did a search on BC and it seems to be that "dry" means you need to add your own acid/distilled water, have I read that correct?

Is this a transport issue?, ie if I went personally for one and picked it up would it be wet?..............don't fancy filling one to be honest after an incident a few years back.

 

Finally a few alternatives are mentioned, Powervamp etc. Is there a direct and better replacemant that involves no bastardisation of tray/strap/leads and will just slot straight in?

 

Many thanks for any pointers

Posted

Quoting kenny.: 
Is this a transport issue?, ie if I went personally for one and picked it up would it be wet.

 

yes it's a transport issue and yes, if you go to pick one up it should be 'wet' - the place where you get it may well add the acid for you then or they maybe like Halfords etc and be ready to go *thumbup*

 

 

Posted

Kenny,

Where do you get your battery from was it local to you ? or local to the North Im thinking of getting a new battery and dont fancy the filling thing too.

 

What sort of money did you pay?

Posted

Any garage will fill a dry bettery for you for a modest charge. I did this with my Banner. It rewarded me by failing a month later and had to go back. ☹️

 

I might be inclined to give a ref no to a motor factor where the thing arrives ready to go, or a battery supplier (they use a lotin things like disabled scooters)

Posted

If you are trying to understand Batteries You will no doubt have heard od the Lucas theory of Smoke

There is a very good section on Batteries.

I Quote>>>>

I think your basic understanding of smoke systems is remarkable. However I find a flaw with your theory. The battery is a reusable storage device for smoke. therefore, one would assume that some sort of one way valve (we can call it a diode) should be needed to prevent pressure flooding back into the system while at rest. Unlike the A/C system, the smoke system is collecting darkness at the headlights and converting it to smoke. This causes the system to fill up. The battery can contain much higher pressures and volumes than the wires. If this pressure exceeds the capacity of the wire, it will cause a rupture as you described. The rupture can be controlled by a sacrificial device known as a fuse. But this still doesn't eliminate the problem. Perhaps a two way valve (zener diode) is used to allow a small amount of pressure to return to the system, and partially equalize. I find this theory unlikely though, due to the increase in the force required to start the pump (which is now under pressure) working again...

 

The smoke continues circulating through the system, due to the pressure differential in the battery (smoke pressure/vacuum reservoir). When the reservoir becomes depleted, the pressure simply equalizes everywhere in the system (similar to an A/C system when it's turned off) and stuff just wont work. Notice the relations: Work (W) = Force (F) x Distance (D); Force (F) = total difference in pressure (Dp) x Area (A). Therefore, the work done in a pressure system is: Dp x A x D. If the pressure differential (Dp) is reduced to zero then W = 0 x A x D = 0.

 

The smoke only escapes the wires when a path is created between the pressure differential areas (@ either the reservoir or the pump) that has too little restriction. When this happens, the smoke travels through the wires so fast that the friction between the smoke and the outer walls of the wiring heats the wires until they rupture. The smoke continues to escape until its pressure is equalized with the atmosphere, or until the conduit that provides the path between pressure areas is severed. When this happens, the sudden drop in pressure allows the wires to "collapse" slightly and, being soo hot, as the edges of the ruptures and severed ends touch, the material becomes fused, sealing the system and retaining the remaining smoke.

 

Don't forget, when the system is at rest, all the valves, (switches and relays) are closed, keeping the pressure areas separated. When restarting the pump, as long as everything is OK, the smoke pressure is equal on both sides of the pump and there is no net force on the pump when it begins operating again. Also, within the pump there are pressure/volume actuated one-way valves with restrict-ors built in, arranged in such a way that they keep excess smoke volume recirculating through an integral smoke loop, which maintains the pressure within manageable limits.

 

The excess smoke, created by the light/smoke converters (headlights and other darkness absorbing devices), is changed back to darkness and dissipated in small unit concentrations so its dark effect is not locally observed. The smoke pump impeller (stator), converts smoke into magnetic flux which does work on the engine. Some of the excess work energy is dissipated through the cooling system and exhaust in the form of heat, while the remaining work energy is converted back to smoke and distributed evenly in small concentrations as you drive. This maintains the total quantity of smoke in the system at an average that does not change over time.

 

Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 1 Mar 2011 19:47:30

Posted
*arrowup* I was assuming that for the £75 CC ask for a battery everything would be included If not why not 🤔 I shall give them a call & find out, as I don't want to have to trawl around local garages asking for sulphuric acid. *rolleyes*
Posted

Martin, if you collect from Dartford they supply ready to go, provided you tell them before collecting.

At least they did both times I have replaced mine.

 

Edited by - George S on 1 Mar 2011 22:22:16

Posted

Thanks for that George *thumbup* I assumed they must be able to supply them filled as they have to fit them wet to the cars they build. Just deciding if I should go for a smaller aftermarket battery (& block of wood) or one of the same.

Currently driving round with a caravan leisure battery & jump leads in the passenger footwell which is a little inconvenient *rolleyes*

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