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K-Series overheating


tomifle

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Hello,

I've got a 1.4 K-series which normally runs at between 85-90 degrees. Over the weekend I took it out and within a couple of miles the temperature gauge showed 100-110 degrees.

Shut it off and pulled over to have a look...

Hose to top of radiator - hot.

Hose to bottom of radiator - cold.

Radiator - cold (except for very top part which I guessed was heat soak from the top hose).

Water in expansion tank - cold.

No hot air from heater outlets in cockpit.

 

Having read through some old topics on Tech Talk I suspect that the thermostat has stuck shut. I would just like ask if this is a reasonable diagnosis before I start getting the tool kit out.

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Thanks and hello back. Only had the Caterham since June and I've been meaning to post a "Hello, I'm here" message but Sod's Law, my first one is a "Help!" message instead.

 

I haven't done any major work on it and nothing like draining the coolant or changing rad etc. that could cause an air leak.

I was bit confused that the top hose was hot but the rad was cold but having read a few posts on here I think this could be because the cold water just backs up from the thermostat.

I suppose my best bet is to just take the thermostat out and check it's ok.

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If you haven't been meddling to date is does sound like the thermostat could be playing games. Make a note of which was it goes when you take it out as I have heard that question asked more than once.

 

The fun really begins when refilling it as you will need to drain a lot of the coolant to take the stat out.

 

ALso be careful mixing different types of cooland i.e. dont do it. Start afresh if you need to.

 

Lots of previous thread although for some reason I think the 1.4k series is the easier ones of the k series engines to refill and bleed.

 

Good luck. Shout if you need to know more.

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Get a bleed tee into the top heater hose and remember to open the heater so the knob is pulled out as far as posible too.

 

It might be a hose going pourous, i had the same problem changed hosed to silicon and sorted the issue out.

 

Tweeky

 

In a purple haze

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Welcome to the madhouse!

 

 

Be very careful to remove all air from the cooling system after having had anything disassembled.

 

It could also be your gauge / sender that's playing games.

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As has been said it's one of two issues

Either your stat is stuck!!

Best way to check is to feel the bypass hose ,that's the one runs from the Club Foot above the headers via the heater bypass control down to the stat It's this convection current of hot water from top of engine that warms the stat and makes it open. If the bypass hose is very hot and your bottom rad hose is Cold it's 90% certain youve got a stuck stat.

Or you have an Airlock

If at the J tube [stat housing] the small bypass hose is not roasting then you 90% have an airlock preventing circulation. If its an airlock loosen off the top heater hose as you run the engine Air will migrate upwards [it does that for some reason:-))] and when the bubbles stop tighten the jubilee clip You then should have hot water circulation.

 

If the stats gone it's a barsteward to replace But dooable and you will need to refill and bleed the system [lots of info on here do a search] I'll not bore everyone else by repeating it

 


jj

MTM , N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻

Membership No.3927.

240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary

 

 

Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 23 Jul 2009 22:11:28

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Lots of previous thread although for some reason I think the 1.4k series is the easier ones of the k series engines to refill and bleed.

 

My experience with the 1400 with the earlier closed top block casting is that it's far harder to bleed compared to the later open top 1600/1800 block casting. You can identify the earlier block with a cross hatched stiffening pattern on the sides. I gave up and fitted a remote thermostat.

 

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