Alan Bowler Posted April 16, 2009 Posted April 16, 2009 From searching I can see that: (a) one turn of the top joint = 1/4 degree of camber (b) to compensate the effect on toe, turn track rod .285 turns per top joint turn Is more negative camber giving more toe out Looking down on the top link it looks like its in the middle of the wheel, so I'm suprised I need to compensate. AB
Bricol Posted April 16, 2009 Posted April 16, 2009 You're leaning the wheel inwards at the top, pivoting around the joint with the bottom wishbone - so you are also moving the track rod connection inwards too - and if you don't shorten the track rod to compensate, you will simply turn the wheel out a touch. If, however, you had adjustable bottom arms too, and nothing else better to do, you could adjust both the top and bottom arms to lean the wheel in around the centre of the track rod end - and then you wouldn't need to adjust the toe. Bri
Jason Plato Posted April 17, 2009 Posted April 17, 2009 The related change between toe and camber will also vary depending on castor ? here is my Duratec R .... C7 TOP Taffia joint AO with Al
Alan Bowler Posted April 17, 2009 Author Posted April 17, 2009 I was so hoping nobody would mention castor. Took me enough trig, string, swearing and new tools to get the camber sorted. AB
MarchHare2008 Posted April 17, 2009 Posted April 17, 2009 Don't forget to adjust for phases of the moon, leap years and magnetic variation as well!
Jason Plato Posted April 17, 2009 Posted April 17, 2009 and when you "flat floor" the car, always build in enough variance on each corner to allow for random bumps in the road and camber changes on corners 😬 here is my Duratec R .... C7 TOP Taffia joint AO with Al
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