Julian Thompson Posted June 15, 2002 Share Posted June 15, 2002 Sorry to spill this one over from a similar techtalk question, but I want to carry on tomorrow! I've fitted the dampers on new SLR today (watts link) and the RHS top mount at the spring seat is touching the ally skin of the boot and actually making a little "dent" on the inside. On the LHS I can get a credit card in the gap. This seems too close even on the LHS and I'm wondering what to do especially with the RHS. Unrivet the panel, modify and reassemble? Ignore? Thoughts? Also, does anyone who's built one recently know where I'll find the bloody nylon A frame rear bush washers as I absolutely can't see 'em anywhere!! Ta. Jue Edited by - Julian Thompson on 15 Jun 2002 21:19:49 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted June 15, 2002 Author Share Posted June 15, 2002 Come on boys! I want to go to bed soon and no answers! Letsby avenue! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJL Posted June 15, 2002 Share Posted June 15, 2002 Julian The dampers were very close to the alloy skins on my 1.6K and the springs come close to the bolts holding the inertia belts in - I don't think its a problem (nor did Caterham when I asked) If you can't find the nylon bushes then your stuffed - you need them - sorry - although as I recall they came in a placcy bag along with some odds & sods so keep looking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted June 15, 2002 Author Share Posted June 15, 2002 Cheers Do you think it will be okay actually rubbing on the ally? As opposed to "very close" on the other side? Presumably, after time it will either form its own groove/deform the panel or loosen the rivets....? I'll keep looking for the nylon washers! Just thought - is there any mileage in fitting the dampers upside down? The car is at my old man's house so I can't pop and see but I wonder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miraz Posted June 15, 2002 Share Posted June 15, 2002 I'd be tempted to check the lengths of the Watt's linkage arms - it's possible that they are fitted incorrectly. This would misplace the DD tube, change the angle of the damper and make it touch the skin. Miraz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted June 15, 2002 Author Share Posted June 15, 2002 Cheers Miraz. I followed the instruction book very carefully - from memory about 475mm on the front arm between hole centres and 244mm on the rear arm. The shorter end of the bellcrank is up and is attatched to the forward arm...... Sound right to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted June 15, 2002 Author Share Posted June 15, 2002 Incedently the damper touches laterally - the longditudional clearance is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miraz Posted June 16, 2002 Share Posted June 16, 2002 Presumably if you haven't found the A-frame washers then the entire DD tube assembly is free to move laterally within the chassis - you might find that when you attach the A-frame that it all lines up correctly. Miraz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted June 16, 2002 Author Share Posted June 16, 2002 Perhaps. Not absolutely convinced though because the thing has found its own happy position and if the a frame tries to force this then this would put a sideways preload on the suspension. Remember that the watts link holds it all central too. Good ideas for me to check out though so thanks a lot. I'll go and have a play with the car now! How much clearance between the damper and ali do your cars have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miraz Posted June 16, 2002 Share Posted June 16, 2002 I've got a few mm between the damper and the ali on all sides, definately no contact anywhere. The lateral position should be determined by the A-frame, there should be enough movement in the Watts linkage to move the dd tube laterally by a few cms if the A-frame has not been attached. It is very easy to over tighten the various links - it should be relatively easy to move the whole assembly through the range of normal suspension travel without the damper attached. Miraz Edited by - Miraz on 16 Jun 2002 10:06:54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OAP Posted June 16, 2002 Share Posted June 16, 2002 Assemble it all but leave the forward A frame bolts loose. Then use shim washers to align the A frame before finally torqueing up. Then check the spring clearences. My nylon washers were in some obscure bag, but several weekends were brought to a halt after giving up the search and waiting for Monday to ask the factory to send the parts I couldn't find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted June 16, 2002 Author Share Posted June 16, 2002 Thanks - found the washers in.........obscure bag! They are very thin and weedy - are these the right bits? Anyway, I've assembled the back end completely. The bloody A frame needed shimming to......the left. Obviously would be for sods law - the damper on the LHS is wedged in against the ali and the RHS is literally the thickness of a piece of paper away - ie it will touch under load. Spoke to a pal with another 7 who tells me his is the same??????? Leave it? Dunno. Anyway, the next issue was the SLR anti roll bar. The diff needed filing down at the casting line and then I still had to chop the alloy blocks down by about 3mm then re-linish the faces as well as carefully filing the chassis bushes and repainting before assembly with lots of copperslip! Took about 2 hours to get the 3mm clearance! Everything else seems fine although as Miraz points out the tightening torques on some of the bolts in the manual are probably a bit high! Edited by - Julian Thompson on 16 Jun 2002 18:58:34 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted June 16, 2002 Share Posted June 16, 2002 You should have bent the ARB to clear the diff. Easy-peasy and no filing. Peterid=teal> 253 BHP K-seriesteeth.gif, no gearboxbum.gifid=red> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OAP Posted June 16, 2002 Share Posted June 16, 2002 Julian, The book tells you to torque the forward Watts linkage bolt to 35lb. I did this and stripped the threads. Dartford said "try 25lbs"!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted June 16, 2002 Author Share Posted June 16, 2002 Peter - you are so right! This would have worked fine in retrospect! Definately i'd do this if I did a build again - much easier. My threads on the forward caphead and rear watts link are okay at 35lbft but the centre ones that go through the bellcrank with the nylocs on worried me - I got to about 33lb ft and just dare not go any higher - I might even request new bolts and nuts and make do with 30lbft - if Dartford were suggesting such a non critical attitude to this then I'd rather be torqued to the low side. Also - the wiring loom design is pants at the rear. The ARB blocks trap it in and the poor thing is clamped to death by the ty wraps in the corner. I've unclipped it all, wrapped it in some nice cloth impreg. tape and then routed it over the ARB brackets secured with a nice P clip on top. Much better. Also - why do they suggest using ty wraps to secure the brake pipe to the dedion tube (YUK!) when said tube seems to have pre drilled holes to take 1/8" rivets and p clips???? Also (its all questions tonight, eh?) the heater blank panel isn't powder coated black like the rest of the car so will look shyte. And it has holes for 1.6 million rivets round it when the chassis has 4 nice brass threads......? eh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted June 16, 2002 Share Posted June 16, 2002 Jue, The panel should be black. This item is black on Kenny's SLR. I only refere to his as it is the most recent example I have seen. The rear brake pipe are all held in place by p clips on my car (factory built). Hope it is going ok. Regards, Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted June 16, 2002 Author Share Posted June 16, 2002 Ta Martin - I'll bell ye olde factorye tomorrow and request a blackun. Yup - going okay - have a look at www.btinternet.com/~v11ufo if you're interested. By the way your site looks nice! Jue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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