Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Help please with build!

Julian Thompson

Recommended Posts

Couple of issues - any help appreciated tonight (SAT) for tomorrow's work!


1)A frame rear bush. Can't find the "nylon race washers" that supposedly go each side. Any idea where they'd be? Or don't I need'em? Also, the manual says I need a plain washer in there too but it isn't very specific as to where......


2)Nasty problem. The LHS rear damper unit (car is de dion + watts link SLR) has a credit card's clearance between its spring seat at the top and the ali boot skin. The RHS is actually touching to the extent that a dent has alreay appeared on the inside of the boot.....


Should I


A) not worry about it.

B) drill out the rivets fitted at the factory and reposition the panel in a more appropriate place, using slightly larger rivets?

C) tell Caterham to replace the panel at the post build check because this is unacceptable?


3) The manual says to torque the 1/4" watts link bellcrank bolts through the balljoints to 10lbft. This seemed a lot - and sure enough the threads stripped at 8lbft. I had to steal some other bolts and fart around cutting them down before toruqing them to a more sensible 6lbft. Just a note in case anyone else finds this problem!



Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Area Representative

The Race washers are about 30mm O.D., 12mm I.D. and about 0.5mm thick. The assembly guide says to use 3/4" O.D. 1/2" I.D. washers each side. These are special washers. If you don't fit them, the "A" frame would be twisted when the car is in roll. They provide clearance between the "A" frame mounts and the boss on the Dedion tube.

I think that the poor clearance on the spring/damper unit is fairly normal, and will open out a little when the suspension is in compression.


Edited by - richard price on 15 Jun 2002 18:42:46

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, Rich, the special nylon washers go innermost next to the dedion tube, then the same washers as the diff spacers, then the A frame and bolt through the lot?


Any idea where the nylon washers are? I've scoured everywhere- and the screw pack doesn't show them as being included inside.......



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your bell crank bolts should be high tensile. From memory

either 8.8 or 10.9. Check on the bolt heads, as these are

critical. I think you may be using bogo standard bolts. Do

not drive the car until you have confirmed the bolt specs

with Caterham Cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Support Team



i had the same problem with conflicting instructions (words and diagrams) about the nylon washers. I called the factory and Caterham Midlands and they both said that they don*t use them in the factory built cars.


So mine are still in the box of bits that didn*t get used and mine seems to be ok




Link to comment
Share on other sites

Never used the nylon washers.


The bellcrank bolts are not what I would call high tensile. They are marked with three 120 degree dashes on the heads which mark them out as a medium carbon steel with a tensile strength in that size of ~120,000 psi, yield of 92,000 psi.


Something like a 12.9 (metric) grade high tensile bolt has a tensile strength of 174,000 psi. Yield strength of 156,600 psi.


Caterham supplied me with one bolt for the Watts linkage with no markings - mild steel. When I questioned this they said they were all the same manufacturer and the same grade. blush.gif I threw a fit. A suspension fitting with no markings on a bolt head!! A bolt that is plainly very small!! Not worth arguing about so I intend to go to my local bolt suppliers and get hold of high tensile replacements. Very unimpressed.




253 BHP K-seriesteeth.gif, no gearboxbum.gifid=red>


Edited by - Peter Carmichael on 18 Jun 2002 12:28:53

Link to comment
Share on other sites

He does, i'll agree with that. Had a similar problem with the roll bar rear connection nylocs. The fronts torqued up fine. Was a cow to get in though!


Don't know if Ju has asked yet, but as anyone any ideas on positioning the wing mirrors with the carbon wind deflector. Doesn't seem to be any flat bits on the screen suitable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My carbon aero had pre-drilled holes for the wing mirrors. The positioning is such that with the rear view mirror in place the mirrors form a line at the same height across the scuttle. This mounts the "wing" mirrors reasonably high on the curve of the aero.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad to see my assembly biatch is thinking about the build of the car rather than mundane things like servicing his lady or getting gainful employment. Top man!


Seriously - Count - my new style deflector is shaped, like the old Superlight one, so the flats of the carbon side mirrors will need bending -or washers...? They are cast so might snap if I try to bend them.


Do you have any visability issues with the mirrors so high?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The base of the side mirrors is not so big that it won't attach direct to the aeroscreen without any spacing washers, the area it is fitted to is not that far from flat - on my carbon aero anyway - I would have though the SLR had a carbon aero the same ?


As regards the visibility, the side mirrors are very good where they are mounted. The centre mirror does somewhat obstruct the view of the left wing but it's not a problem. Mounting lower would cause more problems than it solves.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks again!


The aero on my SLR is that new detatchable swappable with screen thingy. Very nice too. It has a carbon plate that pops to the centre tonneau mounts, then screws to the bottom forward windscreen mount. When not in use the rearward screen mount has a black caphead in it.


The result of this is a helluva lot of twisting/shaping, so the item isn't any dort of c/f I've seen. It has a sort of c/f weave when viewed from behind but the front is black paint or some kind of f/glass gelcoat. Wierd but looks nice.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Create New...