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Tracking / Steering

Quenton Fyfe

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I took my Classic to Kwik Fit for an MOT today. (I know, but they pass it every year without giving me earache about emissions).


They fail it on a steering gaitor, and fit a new one (which appears to entail re-doing the tracking).


When I pick the car up, the steering wheel no longer points straight ahead when the car is going straight ahead.


So I take it back. And they re-do it. And it's no better.


The car doesn't pull left or anything - it's just where the steering wheel is pointed.


So (having wasted most of the day by this point) - I give up, and arrange to take it back next week, and leave it for a whole day so they have time to get it right.


My question - would it be ok for me to just take the steering wheel off and point it straight ahead (instead of having to waste more time going back) - or have they messed up something more fundamental than that?


Bloody MOTs - I can't help feeling that the car is less roadworthy than when I started out - but at least I have piece of paper to SAY it's ok - which seems to be all that matters. *mad*

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It would be ok to more the wheel on the splines but you might not get the perfect position either.

There is no earthly reason why with the kit they have they cannot sort it out properly!


I used to borrow and ex-AA set up with roller plates and arms you clamped to the wheel rims. There were dials on the arms that were connected with a bit of string. One simply set the wheel straight and adjusted the track rod ends until the dials read what toe you wanted. Then bumped the car and twiddled the wheel some and re-checked it.


I should think it would be similar with a laser set up only even more accurate (not that that level of accuracy is really needed, in the real world) - it's speed they are after and the word 'laser' so they sound modern and can charge loads.


Add lightness, says the man with a VX :-)

My 2002/2003 racing pics


General pics (mostly of 7's and cars).



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It sounds like they may have adjusted 1 rod only. Can you check to see if they are the same length ( same amount of thread showing between track rod end & smooth part of rod ).

If they are unequal then tyre wear could occur when cornering.

Try a google search for the Ackerman ( spelling 🤔 ) steering principle, I remember doing it at college about 30+ years ago.



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If they only did ONE rack gaitor, then there's no reason at all why the steering wheel should have changed position.

They did not need to touch the track rod end on the other side.




p.s. - there's a canny bit of kit that you can make (for <£10) with which you can check your own tracking. Requirements are - 8" contiplas from your friendly local DIY shed, and 16 screws. If you have the use of a drill and screwdriver, can read a tapemeasure and can work out the angles on a triangle it's easy. I copied from Richard Price - though he's better at using them than me.

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