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Can someone pop outside with a tape measure for me :-)


Julian Thompson

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...need to know the amount of gap between the top of a standard caterham rad and the nosecone. (I want to duct the cold air in above the rad)

 

Can I also ask that if you have a radtec or triple bypass Caterham one that you do the same thing since I am also looking at those as well.

 

Ta very muchly!! *wink*

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Can't right now - have a look at the pics - give you some idea.

It's not that much in height but over the width available it should give considerable air flow.

here

 

also not sure what the standard rad is - mine was standard in 1997 i think.

 

Add lightness, says the man with a VX :-)

My 2002/2003 racing pics

here

General pics (mostly of 7's and cars).

here

 

Edited by - stevefoster on 27 May 2008 12:27:16

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numerous different rads and nose cone thickness over the years - you can only measure your own realy Julian.

 

Also I found more air once I dropped my rad down on the mounts.

 

Interestingly - the R400 race cars now have a nose cone with an inlet scooped out of the front for the oil cooler, unlike last years method of a ally lip prtruding above the nose.

 

 

 

 

 

here is C7 TOP

Taffia rear gunner

 

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On GJT (Crossflow with an ali rad) it is no more than a couple of inches at the back diminishing rapidly as the nosecone drops towards the front.

(I was pearing from the engine forwards - can I wash my hands now?)

 

Edited by - Golf Juliet Tango on 27 May 2008 12:35:25

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Just been out to mine and with odd legs i have at best measured 1.500" and at worst on the near side where the upper hose is 0.300".....std rad by the way.

That is taking into consideration the nose cone taper as it drops away at the front.

 

_________________________

Gordon.

 

Edited by - Whoosh on 27 May 2008 13:04:34

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Julian,

Radtec, mounted on lower set of holes, ~1.5" at leading (front) edge of radiator.

Reckon you easily have room to drop the Rad by 0.5 - 0.75".

And a modified Rad could lose 2" off the top edge and you'd still have no problems with cooling.

Dave.

p.s. - second the thoughts about having a smaller (read lighter) Rad though

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Thanks for all your help guys.

 

Basically the problem is a bit of a chestnut catch 22!

 

I can run the small bike rad no problem.

 

But my oil gets hot.

 

So you fit an air to oil cooler which needs to be a bit of a stonker especially as you have to fit that partially behind the rad. Which will work but it's not very elegant and also with an oil cooler big enough to do the business on a track day you're going to end up with oil that isn't getting hot enough on the road on a cooler day. So you think about an oil stat but it's getting heavy all this...

 

...so you scrap the air to oil cooler and think about a laminova (which I have and have tested and it works well)...but the problem is that on the standard bike rad the combination of the oil and water heat is too much and you boil over.

 

So - you think about a large rad. Fine - but my car was always blessed with an amazing straight shot to the induction BECAUSE it used to run the small rad and an air to oil cooler that was inadequate on track days but OK for sprints which was what the builder had in mind!

 

So now I'm looking at ways to package a stonker rad in the front to do oil and water cooling (oil via laminova) which will effect excellent thermostatic stabilisation of oil temps via the water stat.

 

Hopefully this makes sense. My other option is the small bike rad and the big oil cooler AND the laminova. Will work very well I'm sure but not so neat to fit and also it won't be light really.

 

I'm finding that often on many things the lightest solution really isn't the best in terms of longevity and performance of a particular component - it's a heck of a tightrope and I hope I've not over engineered the whole thing and made it weigh a ton...

 

We'll see very soon I guess 😳

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Having consulted earlier with my well thumbed copy of "Chassis Engineering" I note a comment he makes about rad and inlet packaging.

 

This is to suggest that you lean the rad backwards or forwards in order to stop the air from having to 'bend upwards' to access the rad. Apparantly this reduces drag.

 

The other thing this does is make it harder to mount of course but looking at the distance between the chassis sides I make it that a rad 17 inches wide will go in canted backwards. Doing the mounts will no doubt be a total pig.

 

I am cutting the sideskins short on at the front where the suspension is like a westfield so that I can then exhaust the heat out of the sides by blocking off the back of this compartment at the chassis V point. (in front of the engine) Once this is done, the top of the chassis can also be pannelled off to separate the induction air from the rad air completely.

 

Hope that all makes some sense - that's where the concept is upto at present!

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