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Specification for my engine? I want to sell my Xflow


Phil

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I am selling my 1700 1990 AX block Super Sprint engine, anyone know the spec on this engine please?

Pistons, cam, flywheel, stage of head, valves ETC

Thanks for any help given.

 

 

FreeRange7

 

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Nicked from another post.

 

1700 Supersprint Engine Specification

 

Base unit

Ford ohv 2265E Kent crossflow

 

Bore Stroke

83.27mm 77.62mm

 

Capacity Compression Ratio

1690cc 9.75:1

 

Cylinder Head

Gas flowed and enlarged ports

 

Valves

Oversize, gas flowed design manufactured in 21-4N steel.

 

Valve springs

Heavy duty, Duplex with retainers to suit.

 

Camshaft

Caterham BCD with high lift short duration profile

 

Pistons

Cast aluminium modified to give valve to piston clearance.

 

Crankshaft bearings

Uprated competition type main and big end shell bearings.

 

Flywheel

Lightened and balanced

 

Clutch

Uprated competition cover assembly and drive plate.

 

Ignition

Caterham distributor with special side entry cap with optional Lucas electronic ignition. NGK B8ECS spark plugs.

 

Valve cover

Caterham cast alloy with "1700 Supersprint" script.

 

Lubrication

High-pressure oil pump with standard wet sump.

 

Inlet manifold

Caterham cast alloy.

 

Carburation

Two Weber 40 DCOE 151

 

Air filtration

Two K&N high performance air filters.

 

Performance Data.

Maximum power 135 BHP (99KW) @ 6000 rpm

Maximum torque 122/lb/ft @ 4500 rpm

 

Servicing Data

* Static ignition timing 10 degrees at BTDC

Valve clearances (cold) inlet 0.22" Exhaust 0.24"

Spark plugs NGK B8ECS

Spark plug gap 0.25"

Firing order 1-2-4-3

*Fuel 97 octane (4 star) leaded

Oil pressure (normal temp) 3-4 BAR

Contact breaker points gap 0.025"

 

Engines numbered with the suffix "UL" can be run on unleaded 95-octane fuel with static ignition timing of 14 degrees BTDC.

 

Alex McDonald

PASSED THE MOT!!!

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Les, the sig is a bit tongue in cheek really .

 

I've got a '97 HPC Vx - standard spec on 45's - and sitting next to it in the garage are a pair of cams + verniers (but I won't fit them yet as teh car is still "standard" mechanically).

 

The other car (a crossflow as I think you know) is now finished and the engine appears to be holding up well.This one has had a succession of cams in it over the past 3 years - some of which have been quite a problem.The currnent hi-lift Newman cam appears to be a/. working and b/. not eating the cam followers and c/. difficult to keep in my running in rev range.

 

Really I should change the sig to something like "Out of the garage, at last".

 

How's your rebuild going ? feel free to call

 

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Dave,

Hehe, sorry about that, just being cheeky I guess!

Chassis-wise, the rebuild is coming on apace, indeed, if i was to take a week off, the thing would be totally finished! Had a slight rethink regarding the engine, so I'm sending it off for a full balance before i go any further. I have a choice of BCF234 Kent cam, or Piper 285 to put back into engine, and I'm curious to enquire why you're choosing the Newman?

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From what I know the Piper gives good results, but I've historically stayed with the 234/244 etc range.

 

I moved to the Newman from a 244 as it more suits the rev limit of the forged pistons, tuftrided crank, etc. It meant a move to roller rockers to cope with the lift (rate-of) but it seems to be worthwhile so far. Word of warning however - teh Newman cam that I have (and I forget which one it is) will NOT drive a dry sump oil pump without wearing the drive gear - hence ruining timing if you are using a dizzy. We ended up with Newman making a cam out of billet steel so that I could keep the dry sump pump driven off the cam.

 

BEst idea getting engine fully balanced - especially if they do a good job for you. It can add 250-500 revs to the top end and stop "white finger" from the steering wheel on long journeys.

 

Dave.

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Ok, well, I've pretty much been talked into re-using the 234 anyway, it seems to be the more preferred option over the Piper.

So, I'll be re-ringing the (presumably) cast pistons, and sizing the conrods, along with full balance of crank, flywheel, conrods, and clutch cover. So much for a 'quick' check-over lol!

I'm down your way in a couple of weeks, so maybe give you a call and a potential beer/blat with Malcolm?

Les.

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Pistons will be cast I would think.

 

You could pick up some nice balanced rods (or bring yours down and leave them with a guy in Crewe). Will not be quick - but they're the next best thing to forged rods. (More cost .... more time .... ! ! )

 

Give me/Malcolm a call when you're going to be down. Is it midweek or over a weekend ?

 

Dave.

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