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Bent Crank? / VVC Cams or 1320 cams


viperbl

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My friend selected the wrong (too low) gear in his Elise and two of the valves hit one of the pistons in his VVC engine ...

 

I was looking to rebuild it on the relative cheap for now, but while stripping it last night I found the flywheel bolts where really tough to come off, never slackened throughout the whole unwinding.

 

Is this normal for flywheel bolts or has the crank likely to have been moved in this piston vs valve game? I would have assumed the cracked piston would have taken the brunt of it and the rod would have been next before the crank?

 

 

 

Edited by - viperbl on 7 May 2008 11:26:44

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Flywheel bolts are often coated with a Loctite style substance, which makes them tight to remove for almost every turn.

 

If you detach the conrods, to do a rotation check on the crank, you will also find it difficult to turn until you refit the head and torque it up.

 

If you need a cheap replacement basic engine, contact me through my profile, as I have access to one.

 

 

JH

Deliveries by Saffron, *thumbup* the yellow 230bhp Sausage delivery machine

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Cheers, that makes sense, crank should be fine then I would imagine ...

 

If you detach the conrods, to do a rotation check on the crank, you will also find it difficult to turn until you refit the head and torque it up

 

I am not sure I understand this? I will find it difficult to turn the crank???? I would have thought it would turn nice and easy?

 

Its all apart so going to put the crank back in and give it a spin to see how it goes ...

 

I was going to flow the head and go for around 170 ish from the VVC head for now, just replacing some pistons/valves where needed. The master plan is to go for some big power and 1444 cams but want to build an engine first like this so not much outlay if something does go wrong...

 

Had a quick word with Oilyhands re what cams to use, he suggested 1320's for the 170 hp, but, cheaper to use the stock VVC cams, BUT, I don't have loom, so not sure this is possible ... might be better looking for some second hand 1320's and VVC blanking ...

 

 

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You wont find secondhand 1320 cams, especially not for the VVC which requires a larger journalled inlet cam. The crank wont be bent.

 

It is probably cheaper to buy a secondhand engine loom and ECU than a set of cams.

 

Without the head on the crankcase will distort to the extent that the bearing tunnels go out of round, hence the stiffness of the cranks rotation. You need a torque plate to assess the turnning torque correctly.

 

Oily

 

Edited by - oilyhands on 7 May 2008 12:36:25

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I am not sure I understand this? I will find it difficult to turn the crank???? I would have thought it would turn nice and easy?


 

A characteristic of the K engine is that the crank will often not sit "true" in the engine casting until the head is torqued down. This final tightening brings the whole sandwich of castings into "square" and at which stage you can turn the engine.

 

The point I was trying to make is that if you just remove the conrods and try to turn the engine, to establish if the crank is bent, you might feel a resistance that makes you believe the crank is bent, even if it isn't.

 

JH

Deliveries by Saffron, *thumbup* the yellow 230bhp Sausage delivery machine

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