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Posted

OK. I'm fitting a new water rail and associated hoses and this is the first tinkering I've ever done on the car after 7 years ownership !

 

The old rail just would NOT come out (I mean, it was undone, all hoses off and loose but seemed to be stuck behind the cross member brace bar). So I took a hack saw carefully to the old one and out it came.

 

However, even though the new one looks like it has been designed to get over this problem, I just can't seem to get the flange through the gaps between the block / exhaust and the cross member.

 

Question 1) : Do I really need to remove the cross member to get this on ?

Question 2) : Do I need to use some kind of sealant on the gasket when re-fitting or just slap it on and tighten up carefully ?

 

Thanks for any help as I've been looking at the damn thing for 20 mins and can only think the cross-members gotta come off !

 

Steve Campbell

P889 GRR

Posted

Thanks guys....next question....thought I'd get away with not replacing the hoses but now I've looked up close I should replace them as some good preventative maintenance as some are starting to show their age.

 

If I wanted to go with red silicone rather than the standard black rubber (for the whole lot, including heater pipes etc), where's the best place to part with my money (I presume only Samco do the Caterham parts ?).

 

Thanks, Steve

 

Steve Campbell

P889 GRR

Posted

Hi Steve

 

If you'd shouted the question out of your front door I'd have probably heard you 😬

 

Full Samco set will be circa £200, for a deal talk to a Samco dealer I found a Rally car specialist was marginaly cheaper than others but can't remember who they were. *confused* You can just buy the 3 main hoses from CC in silicone and leve the others in rubber which would be much cheaper.

 

Good luck with the 'J' hose, my advice would be to take off the inlet manifold for access and the termostat housing and replace the hose on the bench. It will be quicker in the long run, if you want a hand one evening let me know.

 

Adrian

Posted

I managed to change mine without removing the chassis rail. Though that probably depends on how high the engine is mounted. Just check that the engine mounts haven't broken, as this is a common cause of the water rail cracking as it drops and rests on the chassis rails.

 

Also tighten the rear of the rail first, then the front bolt, packing it out to make sure it doesn't force the rail too far onto the block, thus stressing the rear seal. Good luck they are a PITA sometimes.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

This is now driving me crazy......thanks for all support so far as this is my first attempt at fettling...thought I'd start on something very simple but.....

 

Finally got around to putting all this back together today ......

 

I cannot get the chassis rail back in position.... doesn't look like the engine has dropped (although not really sure what I'm looking for exactly).

 

The new water rail (now fitted) sits tight against the chassis rail.....very tight...it's a real struggle to get the rail back in place.....don't think this can be right....anyone got any pictures ? I would have expected a few millimetres clearance at least ?

 

Adrian...thanks for the offer previously..if you are around one evening I wouldn't mind a 2nd opinion from someone who know's what they are looking at ! YHM

 

All other offers of support greatly appreciated as this fettling lark is starting to drive me bonkers.....

Cheers

 

 

Steve Campbell

P889 GRR

Posted

Have just been back out to poke about and have a much closer look...near side engine mount HAS gone.

 

Excuse me while I SCREEEEEAAAAAAMMM

 

There...that's better 😬

 

Off to broaden my techtalk search to see how painful this is going to be........

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