1400ss to 1800ss conversion (I think I've got an engine!)

[Brucey]

Looks like I've secured an 1800cc R300 engine to replace my 1993 1400k ss engine

 

I have a few questions:

As both are EU2 I know I will have to fit the flywheel from my 1400 engine.

Will I need to shorten the gearbox input shaft?(I don't intend to fit a programmable ECU, long first box conversion or bigger exhaust.......yet )

Should I fit the verniers from my 1400? (I'm assuming the R300 cams are as good as, if not better than my 1400ss cams)

Would you reccomend fitting clutch & pressure plate? (existing clutch has done 45K)

Will the hole/bearing in the crank be the right one for my 5 speed box?

Should I look at fitting a bigger throttle body to my current ss plenum (as on e bay) or will my ally ss plenum chamber/throttle body be o.k.?

As my factory built car requires a full emission test, will I have problems with this conversion? (intend to run standard 1400K ss ECU and exhaust for time being)

Is there anything else I should look at/change while the engine is out?

Has anyone got some 'cream' injectors lying around?

 

I already have an ally rad and Apollo fitted to my 1400 and will retain these.

 

Without questioning the seller who seems genuine and helpful (and reads this forum ), are there any identifying marks that will confirm its an 2003 1800cc R300 engine? (polished ports, verniers, solid followers, engine number etc) It is being sold without flywheel, exhaust, plenum, injectors etc.

 

As usual, any advice appreciated.

 

Bruce.

 

 

[oilyhands]

The R300 cams are pretty much the same as the early solid SS profiles. You should fit your verniers and set the cqm timing accordingly. Identifying characteristics re solid followers and a little bit of work on the first 10mm or so of the inlet ports to match the roller TBs.

 

You shouldnt have to alter the gearbox shaft, but you may need to drill out the bolt holes in the sump.

 

The TB on the ally plenum is already much larger, you may need to modify the runners on the ally plenum since it may not match the heads inlet ports since these are now much larger at the port entry.

 

I have several sets of cream injectors here.

 

Oily

[SLR No.77]

Are you sure the R300 has solid followers

 

Stu.

 

www.superse7ens.co.uk..........the rebuild 😬

 

 

[oilyhands]

absolutely certain.

 

Oily

[Brucey]

Thanks Dave, useful info as ever.

 

The engine comes complete with sump so no problem there. I'll probably just remove the foam baffle and do the gasket mod.

 

I haven't a clue how you tell if a head has solid followers. I assume I'll have to remove the Cam Cover to check anyway.

 

From what you say, I'm guessing R300 engines had Throttle Bodies fitted as standard.

 

Will the Vernier Cam Timing be the same as my 1400ss?

Should the R300 engine already be fitted with a manual cam tensioner? (If not, I guess I can use the one from my 1400 engine).

 

Whats the best way to blend in the inlet manifold? (Engineers Blue and a file springs to mind)

 

I'll contact you about the injectors off line once I've got the engine home.

 

Bruce.

[oilyhands]

Remove the cam cover, have a look at the follower tops, solid followers are nitrided so the follower starts life with a dull grey patina, as the cams wear in the centre of the follower will work to a shiny surface leaving a dull grey ring about 1-2mm wide around the outside of the follower top, this is how the solid followers are identified.

 

A die grinder is the best way to match the manifold, non -VVC R300s have roller barrel TBs fitted as standard. The cam timing can be as per your 1400SS. R300s have 'orrible auto tensioners which are just about OK at that level of cam since the valve acceleration is not too high and the spring pressure is moderate.

 

If you want to us a manual tensioner you will need to drill and tap the head and fit a different belt *not* the one from the 1400 but the wider one from the VVC.

 

Oily

[Mick Day]

Bruce

 

You may need to shorten your gearbox input shaft. I had to do this when I swapped my 1994 1.4 for a 1.6 back in 2000. It all depends on what spigot bearing arrangement there is in the R300 crank compared to your present crank.

 

There is somewhere in the dim & distant Low Flying past (1996??) an article describing how Caterham had a Black & Decker drill in a jig for drilling the cranks of early K series to fit the standard input shaft of a Ford gearbox. Maybe someone has a copy?

 

If it helps I do have some pics of my shortened input shaft (with a measure alongside) plus some comparison pics of other shafts (for a Rover clutch).

 

Shortening the shaft is not difficult with an angle grinder.

 

As far as the clutch is concerned I would personally change it, however have a look at the lining & see how far it's worn. The pressure plate will probably be OK but weigh up the inconvenience of having to take the engine out again if it's not.

 

 

[Mick Day]

 

 

 

 

Edited by - Mick Day on 14 Nov 2007 10:43:15

[SLR No.77]

Are you sure the R300 has solid followers

absolutely certain

Question was intended for Bruce, but I guess you being an authority on the K were teh best person to answer Cheers Dave

 

Stu.

 

www.superse7ens.co.uk..........the rebuild 😬

 

 

[John Howe]

To you questions, all the boxes seem to have been ticked... but if you want to drive over to the farm with the new engine in your boot, I'll take my die-grinder to the ports and blend the TB to the head whilst you wait.

 

 

 

JH

Deliveries by Saffron, the yellow 230bhp Sausage delivery machine

[Brucey]

Thanks all

Mick,

I'll measure the depth of the hole in both cranks to see if the gearbox input shaft needs shortening. I'll probably fit a new clutch kit & CRB for piece of mind. I guess the extra torque will reduce the problem of the gap between 1st & 2nd.

 

John,

Thanks for the offer. I've got a compressor and windy drills so I may buy some die grinder bits and have a go myself altough a couple of 'before' and 'after' photo's would help. I may just drive over to your farm to look at all the tools you must have!

 

I'm a bit suprised no one has mentioned lightened flywheels yet, although I'm really after a nice road car with plenty of torque.

 

Do I need to check valve clearances with solid followers? (I've been told the engine has only done 15K road miles) I spent many an hour reshimming Lotus Twincam heads 30 years ago and thought I'd done with all that!

 

Bruce.

[Tim V-W]

Brucey

 

fantastic 😬

 

If you feel like BM'ing me for moral support / mutual condolances please feel free.

 

Although, you probably have less work to do on yours so maybe it will be mostly one way

[Mick Day]

OK Bruce I'll mention a lightened flywheel - yes nice to have but not essential. However again the engine has to come out if you later decide you want one. A standard flywheel can be lightened by about 2 kg's, without weakening it, however only have it done by someone who knows what they are doing.