k80rum Posted September 4, 2007 Posted September 4, 2007 A quick question for anyone running an Innovate LC1 wideband controller; I need to provide the fused 12v ignition supply and I've got a number of choices of where to take it from. Could anyone who's installed one let me know what they chose please? I'd really appreciate the advice. Many thanks Darren E Website and Emerald maps library Superlight R #54
rj Posted September 4, 2007 Posted September 4, 2007 Darren, From the narrow band lambda sensor heater. This is switched with the fuel pump - by the fuel pump relay output from your ECU. /regin
k80rum Posted September 4, 2007 Author Posted September 4, 2007 Fantastic! Thanks a million Regin Darren E Website and Emerald maps library Superlight R #54
jackb_ms Posted September 5, 2007 Posted September 5, 2007 I've created its own circuit via a fuse and the ignition switch Jack Emily, The Very Yellow 21 Edited by - jackb_ms on 5 Sep 2007 09:36:35
k80rum Posted September 5, 2007 Author Posted September 5, 2007 Cheers Jack That was one of the options I'd been considering but really wanted to re-use something redundant (like the narrowband sensor heater) to avoid another cable run through the bulkhead. Darren E Website and Emerald maps library Superlight R #54
Peter Carmichael Posted September 5, 2007 Posted September 5, 2007 I had problems using the narrow band heater supply from the relay as the ECU (Emerald pre-K3) switched it off as revs rose.
rj Posted September 5, 2007 Posted September 5, 2007 Peter, I suppose this is different to my ECU as it's an MBE which has all three relay coils connected to the fuel pump supply. Obviously the fuel pump would not be cut off as revs rise, and hence not the heater... I dunno how the Emerald is wired to the car, I have never seen a Caterham EU2 K-series diagram. /regin
k80rum Posted September 5, 2007 Author Posted September 5, 2007 That's well worth knowing, thanks Peter and Regin. Mine's an EU2 loom, so plugged straight into the K3. I've removed my old narrowband sensor from the loom; it had two wires to the ECU plug - these seem to be the analogue input and sensor ground. A thicker cable went to my MFRU, which I'm assuming is the heater signal and it provides a +12v with the ignition switched on. I think I might play it safe and wire directly into the loom, or at least check the feed remains live through the rev range, as I'm guessing losing the heating to the sensor whilst the engine's running could lead to sensor damage... Darren E Website and Emerald maps library Superlight R #54
k80rum Posted September 6, 2007 Author Posted September 6, 2007 Darren E Website and Emerald maps library Superlight R #54
CageyH Posted June 30, 2008 Posted June 30, 2008 Darren, Where did you make the connections in the end? I am contemplating installing mine this week, but need to make the connections intot he ECU and switched 12V supply. I see there is a switched 12V supply into the ecU. Would this sufice? Only dead fish go with the flow....!
k80rum Posted June 30, 2008 Author Posted June 30, 2008 I can't remember exactly what mine's wired into I'm afraid. It's the circuit which goes live when the FIA switch if on, so it's independant of the ignition circuit - A bit of a double-edged sword in that the LC1 LED now acts as a dash-indicator that the FIA key is in the live position and gives me a little bit more time pre-heating the sensor before the engine runs.. The downside is that if I ever forget to remove the FIA key, it'll flatten the battery. I originally wired it in to the MFRU lambda relay output, which is controlled by the narrowband heater signal from the ECU. I didn't seem to get the switching-off issue that PC had, but YMMV. Jack's post using a dedicated circuit is arguably the best approach but will require extra cable runs.. Darren E K80RUM Website and Emerald maps library Superlight R #54 Edited by - k80rum on 30 Jun 2008 18:25:11
CageyH Posted June 30, 2008 Posted June 30, 2008 Thanks. I am contemplating the ECU +ve supply on pin 11 (Switched), with the Lambda input to the ECU on pin 10, as this has the pull up resistor and already has a wire going into the ECU connecion. Seems like an easier solution. Only dead fish go with the flow....!
jackb_ms Posted June 30, 2008 Posted June 30, 2008 If you go for any solution don't forget to fuse it. Before connecting the LC1, I've search for possible problem with that system and it came apparent that if the sensor needed to be switch on a while before the engine will be switch on, a few second usually suffice to cure the most of them. On my car, C21, the delay is created by the time it takes for the fuel pump to pressurised the fuel system then to turn it self off. Jack Emily, The Very Yellow 21
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now