Car won't start - Help !!!!

[lowlander]

Hi there,

 

My 1994 K series won't start. It's the standard factory vecta immobilisor thats the problem. Plenty of life in the battery. Lights and hazards all worlking as they should.

 

The little red / green LED shows no signs of life and the car won't turn over. No signs of life at all.

 

Any advice?

 

Thanks.

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

It's not the MarkieBabes syndrome is it ??

 

Red key still in your pocket ?

 

******************

And you run and you run to catch up with the sun, but it's sinking...

 

And racing around to come up behind you again. new link to photos

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

here

 

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And you run and you run to catch up with the sun, but it's sinking...

 

And racing around to come up behind you again. new link to photos

[Allen Payne]

Disconnect and throw away the Vecta unit - they all fail a some point, mine choose to fail on a dual carridgeway.

 

They've very easy to remove and you just need to reconnect the wires in the loom under the dash were it was spliced into.

 

 

[Dickie Normuss]

2nd the above. Mine dumped me a few times until I binned it. They fail quite a lot

 

VX HPC - Loud and proud here

Watch out, whatever hits the fan will not be distributed evenly

[Mick Day]

Let's be fair, most last quite a long time. If it's failed after 13 years it's not bad. However doesn't help the non-starting problem. As mentioned 2 circuits bypassed under the dash: coil & starter. However the wiring for the 3rd interupt to the fuel pump is usually spliced in the tunnel; it was on my 1994 car. If you can take the scuttle off it makes it so much easier.

[Markiebabes]

Thanks for bringing that up Ian

 

Superlight R 400

 

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

Any time !!

 

******************

And you run and you run to catch up with the sun, but it's sinking...

 

And racing around to come up behind you again. new link to photos

[lowlander]

Well its fixed itself for the time being although I'll probably take the vecta out at some point as Idon't want to be stranded.

 

Before the car fixed itself I did have a good look at the wiring and it looks far from simple. There are 5 wires coming from the key slot in the dasboard, another two from the LED and another two from the 'speaker' that bleeps when the immobilisor activites and then de-activates. In top of this there are 4 black wires running from the main fuse box. All these wires run underneath the dash to the immobilisor unit itself. There are then another 14 or so black wires comes out of the vecta cylinder.

 

Removing the scuttle looks like major work as well.

 

 

[DaveMorris]

It's not as bad as it looks.

In reality there are only a few of the wires that actually do any "interrupting of essential services".

But if you don't trust the unit then it is worth having it removed - or alternatively isolated from the car for a while to see if it is teh real cause of the non-starting.

Dave

[lowlander]

Car now back up and running.

 

Was a bit of a fiddle to bypass the vecta but a few skinned knuckles and a bit a swearing and all is now well. I've left the vecta in the car for the time being along with the key slot and the LED in the dash. Removing them would just leave holes to be filled in the dash.

 

Working under the dash is a right ba%£*rd...........

 

Went through plenty of insulating tape and cable ties as well trying to keep things neat and tidy

 

Thanks for the advice.