DaveMorris Posted August 5, 2006 Posted August 5, 2006 I've read on here that TADTS. Fine, but mine moves approx 5mm on the rim of the wheel - which I make to be ~2degrees. This seems quite a lot to me. Now I couldn't help noticing that the F1 drivers ALSO seem to have removable steering wheels. I bet that theirs don't have 2degrees free play in them 😬 I assume that their release mechanism is a little (!) bit more expensive than the one on the seven, so out of my reach. WHY do the ones we use on sevens go slack so quickly ? Are there any systems out in the market (I should have said "affordable systems") which don't give this freeplay ? Seriously considering going back to a fixed wheel if it gets any worse ☹️ Dave.
elie boone Posted August 5, 2006 Posted August 5, 2006 are u sure that the Q R boss is pushed all the way to the end ? otherwise take a look at the steering clamp where the brake mastercilinder is located, this maybe has loosened a bit.
Mark Adderley Posted August 5, 2006 Posted August 5, 2006 Dave Greasing the top of the spline seems to help this a bit - mine does exactly the same (albeit not to the same extent). Cheers Mark 1400 SS - 45k and counting......
DaveMorris Posted August 5, 2006 Author Posted August 5, 2006 Elie - Having had a steering column "let go" on me in recent past I have made sure that all connetions are nice and tight. There's no play in UJ or in clamp which joins top/bottom sections. Mark - having seen a couple of threads where people end up with minimal gains on steering play but maximum hassle from SWMBO with grease on trousers etc I've decided to stay away from the greased splines thing. I'm really wanting to know what the technological / design advantage is that F1 removable wheels have over the design that we can buy for the se7ens. If it's just a question of better machining, better materials then fine. But if it's a different design then possibly we can use it ? Anyone know about their system (or a better one than Caterham provide) ( I'm also thinking about going to a 22% rack - which will make driving along a dual carriageway almost impossible ) Dave
Unclefester Posted August 5, 2006 Posted August 5, 2006 What make is it Dave? I've a Momo on the SV and something beginning with A on the TC, neither have any play at all....but I droove the SV for several hundred miles with the thing not fully pushed home and it was moving in and out on the column.....
mav Posted August 5, 2006 Posted August 5, 2006 The racetec onmes that caterham used to supply are the same as some F1 teams are supposed to use! I have one on my car and find I have no plat. The Lifeline ones seem to be more prone to having 'play' in the system...
Myles Posted August 6, 2006 Posted August 6, 2006 I have a Lifeline - and with several years of all-weather use, it has loads of play - you can even feel play by pushing forward on one side (or the top) and pulling back on the other (or the bottom). Lawrence Hoy wrapped some ptfe tape around one of the detentes and this seems to have improved matters somewhat - not exactly a bullet-proof solution (well, time will tell...), but at least it doesn't leave you with grease everywhere. It's worth trying to find a solution though - the car chatters all over the road with a quick-rack and this amount of play... Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com
Normans_Ghost Posted August 6, 2006 Posted August 6, 2006 I was going to fit a rubber cone around the coloumn and between wheel and dash to damp the "rattle" May also try a spring inside the wheel. Never bothered but will have a look and report back during the week. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited
Graham Perry Posted August 6, 2006 Posted August 6, 2006 I have used the same SPA one for over a decade, and no play at all.
Myles Posted August 6, 2006 Posted August 6, 2006 Hmm - sounds promising. How much wet-weather usage does it get? One recently-heard theory is that: i) Your column gets wet ii) It rusts, maybe imperceptibly, but even so... iii) The rust acts as an excellent abrasive - and each time you replace the wheel after a lay-up, you wear it a little more... Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com
Tony C Posted August 6, 2006 Posted August 6, 2006 IMHO, there is always going to be a little play between the wheel and the spline due to it being a sliding fit. If there were no play it would not be posible for it to be removed. Mine always seems to have more play than I'd like when stationary, but never notice any backlash while driving. I too use Castrol LM grease on the spline - there's no need to put half the tin on, merely a smidgin applied with an old toothbrush and wipe-off any excess after fitting and removing the wheel BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)
Normans_Ghost Posted August 7, 2006 Posted August 7, 2006 They are made to a price and therefore the tolerance isn't all it could be. I don't think it's the actual movement thats a problem it's feeling it that causes concern. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited
Normans_Ghost Posted August 7, 2006 Posted August 7, 2006 OK, at the risk of repeating myself (as if I would) look here Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited
DaveMorris Posted August 7, 2006 Author Posted August 7, 2006 Don't know the make of the QR coupling - I'll go and have a look to see if there's any markings or specific design features on it. Dave.
andy couchman Posted August 7, 2006 Posted August 7, 2006 I put some grease on mine and it tightened it up quite a lot. Might be a regular maintenance item? Andy PS watch out ffor the grease when getting in and out...
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