Airheart handbrake caliper

[Dickie Normuss]

I've got AP's with a seperate 'Airheart' branded handbrake caliper on the back. I spent 6 hours yesterday taking the entire system apart, lubed all the cables etc to make it work and it's still cr@p. What a poor design IMO. Has anyone else got these and managed to make them work? Even fully adjusted and the handbrake on I can still turn the wheels. I wouldn't normally mind as I don't use it but I need to MOT the car next week. Answers on a postcard.

 

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[Dickie Normuss]

Failing that, any suggestions on an alternative handbrake caliper?

 

Seek forgiveness, not permission.

Rules are for the interpretation of wise men and the obedience of fools.

[Hurtle]

I have the same problem! I have to pull the handbrake incredibly hard to apply and the springs on the callipers are not strong enough to release properly.

 

I too would be interested in an alternative if there is one.

 

Jas

 

 

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[John Howe]

Not saying this is the problem but, a couple of years ago, it was suggested to me by John at Redline that the handbrake handle fouls the frame and therefore no amount of pulling would apply it any further.

 

I tightened up the cable so that it would be fully on at two clicks and low and behold I had a hand brake that works - wish I had tried that five year earlier.

 

JH

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[Dickie Normuss]

Mine's on at 2 clicks. I can get a third click on if I use both hands from outside the car. Even then it's useless

 

Seek forgiveness, not permission.

Rules are for the interpretation of wise men and the obedience of fools.

[NickD]

These handbrake calipers can be persuaded to work well enough for the MoT test - I've had better than 20% from them.

 

A problem with the calipers is that they only allow less than 3mm total pad travel, so that they have to be adjusted until the pads are nearly touching the disc on each side when fully released. You will have to play with shims between the two caliper halves and (maybe) bend the mounting plate to achieve this. I made some thinner shims to help with this. Then tighten the adjusting screw on the back of the caliper to set the minimum clearance.

 

The handbrake now gripped but wouldn't release properly so I then fitted a return spring to each caliper. This was just a compression spring slipped over the end of the cable between the mounting bracket and the lever on the caliper.

 

All of this resulted in a system which worked quite well. The downside was that the rear brakes then squeaked when used on the road. I only resolved this by slackening the adjustment screw on the caliper after the MoT. The handbrake still worked, although not as well, and I just readjust prior to any further test.

 

[Myles]

My handbrake gets used once a year... Twice if you count the pre-MOT test...

 

 

 

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[Dickie Normuss]

Looking good, made some new pads And Myles, this was the first time I've used it

 

Seek forgiveness, not permission.

Rules are for the interpretation of wise men and the obedience of fools.

[Phil]

I have the standard callipers but from experience the less clicks you get from the lever means less travel from the arm on the calliper making it easier to seize up and not work at all.

You should have full handbrake lever movement, average on most cars is between 6 and 10 clicks, I would suggest disconnecting it and finding out how many clicks you get from the lever, if it is 9 for example set the handbrake at about 7.

As recommended the calliper should be adjusted up to the pads leaving 1mm play only, then connect the handbrake, do not press the pedal, adjust handbrake, take for a drive then check adjustment.

 

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