Remember there are also two types of lower joint depending on suspension type - the early cars had Triumph trunions and later with the spherical bearing posted by SM25T
I am have a big problem removing the nut from the taper bolt. Most of it undid fairly easily but the end will not go through the nut and the bolt just rotates. I have managed to remove the gaitor and get a pair of grips on the bolt but it is so tight it just slips in the jaws. The end of the bolt looks as though it has a hole in the end. Could this be for an Alllen key or similar to stop the bolt from turning?
Some have an Allen key but it doesn't look like Allen key to me in your picture. I've used a ratchet strap between the joint and bottom wishbone to draw the two together.
Paul Richards
LADS Joint AR
I thought 2020 was the year that was going to give me all I wanted. It turned out to be the year to make me appreciate what I've got.
I have finally managed to get one nut off using two ratchet straps and a 4" G clamp pushing a 6mm bolt on the end of the ball joint bolt to stop it turning.
I was expecting a mix of Nyloc and cement on the nut thread but it has white cement on the end and the rest of the thread is very shiny which was most likely stripped of all junk when undone. The bolt is light rust looking. I have soaked both in oil.
I will try fitting a new gaitor in situ but if the rod end has to come off what is the lock nut size?
Hopefully I now have a system that will work for the other side.
Rod ends replaced. The new ball joints are much stiffer. The old set of tapers could easily be pushed around with my fingers. The new set takes quite a bit of effort. I think my difficulty in undoing the old nuts was mainly down to some corrosion on the exposed part of the threads and the looseness of the joint added to my woes. Greased the exposed part of the bolt to keep water and road junk at bay.
Tools required: 22mm combination spanner, two ratchet straps, 4" G clamp, 6mm bolt (inch long or less). Ratchet spanner would be nice but not essential.
If anyones looking for a top ball joint (unused) i have one in the garage for the price of a beer.
I also have a brand new bottom wishbone / upright bearing ( bought two but then only fitted one as the other side wasnt worn )
Remember there are also two types of lower joint depending on suspension type - the early cars had Triumph trunions and later with the spherical bearing posted by SM25T
#19
#23
Thanks Both
My car is 1996 and the lower joints have an internal (female) thread which is ½" so not the ones mentioned by SM25T.
Does anyone know if these are QR1572?
I am have a big problem removing the nut from the taper bolt. Most of it undid fairly easily but the end will not go through the nut and the bolt just rotates. I have managed to remove the gaitor and get a pair of grips on the bolt but it is so tight it just slips in the jaws. The end of the bolt looks as though it has a hole in the end. Could this be for an Alllen key or similar to stop the bolt from turning?
Normally, yes. Why not try it ! Or stand on the top of the rod end
I did. 14 stone is not fat enough.
"Normally, yes" is that in answer to my Allen key question?
Yes
Some have an Allen key but it doesn't look like Allen key to me in your picture. I've used a ratchet strap between the joint and bottom wishbone to draw the two together.
I thought 2020 was the year that was going to give me all I wanted. It turned out to be the year to make me appreciate what I've got.
I have finally managed to get one nut off using two ratchet straps and a 4" G clamp pushing a 6mm bolt on the end of the ball joint bolt to stop it turning.
I was expecting a mix of Nyloc and cement on the nut thread but it has white cement on the end and the rest of the thread is very shiny which was most likely stripped of all junk when undone. The bolt is light rust looking. I have soaked both in oil.
I will try fitting a new gaitor in situ but if the rod end has to come off what is the lock nut size?
Hopefully I now have a system that will work for the other side.
Rod ends replaced. The new ball joints are much stiffer. The old set of tapers could easily be pushed around with my fingers. The new set takes quite a bit of effort. I think my difficulty in undoing the old nuts was mainly down to some corrosion on the exposed part of the threads and the looseness of the joint added to my woes. Greased the exposed part of the bolt to keep water and road junk at bay.
Tools required: 22mm combination spanner, two ratchet straps, 4" G clamp, 6mm bolt (inch long or less). Ratchet spanner would be nice but not essential.