Also, I'd google DVLA and engine swaps - they are more interested these days in modifications and may ask for receipts and/or want to inspect the vehicle.
(based on a few PH reads so could be complete tripe!). Also know of a mini owner who has reshelled it with a fibreglass shell and DVLA want it IVA'd before allowed on the road!
Ref #12 you should not have any issues with vehicle identity, i.e. the need for new tests, if just changing the engine (and transmission). For the engine you only loose 1 point and the transmission 2 points on the DVLA system (see Vehicle registration: Radically altered vehicles - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) ). Maximum points are 14 and you need 8 to keep the vehicle identity.
The advice on receipts, etc. is sound. I have been asked for proof of ownership of an engine when changing one
1985 S3 1700 XFlow. Undergoing full restoration
I had a 120bhp 8 valve Vauxhall Seven fitted with 185/70 13s. I sold it three years ago & bought a 210bhp 420R which was fitted with fifteen inch wheels with 195/50 ZZS front & rear.
I was expecting the 420 to feel wayward with an extra 90bhp over the VX, but it has always felt very well tied down & you can certainly give it the full beans in the dry without having to worry about the back end sliding unexpectedly. I guess improved tyres, suspension set up & the LSD help.
Since then, I’ve changed the Titan diff for a Tracsport & swapped the fifteen inch wheels for thirteens, with 8 inch rears & if anything, I’d say it feels a little bit TOO grippy at the rear, even with a recent upgrade to 220bhp. I've since had the car flat floored & adjusted to suit the new wheels, so it's not a set up issue.
I do wonder if I’d prefer the car with matching wheels front & rear. If my experience is anything to go by, I’d say you’d probably be okay with the same sized wheels. Perhaps just drive it for a while & see how it feels?
If you have adjustable spring platforms, you can simply adjust the ride height to suit the new wheels. Having the car flat floored & properly set up makes quite a difference.
Oh... & welcome to Blatchat!
good! Thanks for you post Nigel,
I was told that the camber/toe will be affected but I guess adjusting the upper balljoint could correct this easily. Is that you thought too?
I think my approach would be to take it to a specialist & get it properly set up.
DPR Motorsport set my car up last spring & having the car correctly adjusted to suit the wheels & tyres you're using really does make a world of difference.
They start at the beginning & ensure the ride height & rake are correct, before systematically working their way through every aspect of the set up, checking the corner weighting, camber, toe, caster & finally, dialling out any bump steer that may be present by shimming the steering rack.
I know a lot of members do set up their own cars, but I personally wouldn't feel confident enough to have a go myself. As you hint at in your post above, all this stuff is interlinked, adjust one aspect & it affects everything else.
Personally I think it's well worth the expenditure.