Upgrading/modding 160

[Jamuelson]

Very recent first Caterham owner here.

After spending months on the fence I finally pulled the trigger over X-mas on a Seven Sprint (based on a 160). The car has spent most of its life being dry stored so I have covered about 300 miles so far ironing out the kinks (and loving every minute of it).

Now considering making some performance upgrades before summer. Wondering if there are any other UK based 160 owners who have made any upgrades? What sought of changes have you made? In my (limited) experience the braking performance seems to be the obvious place to start so considering upgrading the master cylinder, front pads and brake fluid; has anyone already tried this on a 160? What was the outcome?

 

[Jonathan Kay]

Welcome.

Have you got all of the documentation: Assembly Guide, amendments, wiring diagram and Handbook? Please let me know if you'd like any of those.

Jonathan

[7 wonders of the world]

I understand the Japanese market chip this engine to around 200 BHP in its original form..... 

[DougBaker]

If you can lock the wheels the brakes are probably ok, as they are not servo assisted you might need to press harder than you are used to.

Then spend the money saved upgrading the scenery around the car by taking it to nice places 

[Membership Secretary]

Welcome to the Club!

I built a 160 in 2015 and thoroughly enjoyed touring around in it. Its an excellent car for long trips.

With such a light and nimble car, braking in the wet did take a while. However, I think that this is more to do with the thin profile of the tyres than the pads. I don't know if better tyres are available. However, part of the attraction of the car was the way it moved around at low speed.

At that time an limited slip diff was not available for the 160. However, your supersprint has one and I think that this might really enhance the feel of the car. 

I am sure that you will enjoy it.

Simon

[Beagler]

My 270s was uprated to a 310s and I have just fit vented discs, 4 pot calipers and the uprated master cylinder. All brake changes are easy mods.

[7 wonders of the world]

Big Brakes were created for 24hr endurance racing....... and then the marketing dept saw an opportunity to sell them as an upgrade....  

The stock brakes on a Caterham are more than capable, and are significantly lighter then the big brakes.... keeping unsprung weight nice and low.

 

[Beagler]

When my car goes back on the road I will report back on the whether in my opinion the mod was worthwhile.

[SLR No.77]

I ran standard brakes on my last car for 10 years, my current car came with big brakes which I've run for a further 10+ years .... and I concur with 7 Wonders, unless you're doing sustained track use big brakes aren't necessary. Fit an appropriate set of pads and have the car set up properly ideally by someone who knows what they're doing!

My personal opinion with the 160 Sprint is keep it as it is. If you do make changes make sure they're reversible.

Stu.

[Beagler]

Interesting the 4 pot caliper upgrade kit came with a note saying that the 4 pot AP calipers were not suitable for track use. If not they must be designed for road use.

[7 wonders of the world]

No the kit was designed to increase CC's bottom line.......

[john g]

Sensible and cheap brake up grade is fitting M1144 front pads.

[aerobod - near CYYC]

The 4-pot calipers do well on the track with great pedal modulation and the ability to lock the wheels at any speed the car is capable of, if necessary. The limitation is the stock rear calipers that have very high pad wear when using high mu pads to balance the braking with the 4-pots when using sticky tyres.

I only get about 2,000km (1,200 miles) of life from a set of rear pads with about 8 track days and 500km of road use over that distance, but the 4-pot pads are a lot more resilient with about 10 times the life. I always keep a spare set of rear pads in my tool box when going to the track and check the pad thickness before every track day.

[Jamuelson]

Thanks All,

Some useful advice (and healthy cynicism!).

Avoided the master cylinder upgrade but fitted new AP racing pads and changed/bled the brake fluid. Feel and stopping performance has improved dramatically. Very happy with the outcome (especially as it cost me less than £80 and hardly took any time at all).

Onto the next tinkering project before the summer - suggestions welcome?

 

 

 

[Toughie]

In 2016 I did one of the Get To Know our & courses at CC Gatwick, run by Simon Lambert.

From my notes (apologies to CC if my notes are inaccurate), and at the risk of lighting the blue touch paper, this is the general order of upgrades he recommended at the time:

1. 13” wheels.
2. ZZS tryres.  Better in wet and more progressive (also ZZR).
3. 4 point harness, correctly worn (tight to breathe).  Better connected to car. (Schroth harness if you’re thin).  6 point harness.
4. Rear anti-roll bar  £150.  Take off in wet.  A softer car is quicker in wet.  Orange is basic ½”.  Red is 5/82, so a bit stiffer.
5. LSD.  Especially in 160 – 170 bhp.
6. Brakes.  Big brakes on front.  Bigger master cylinder.
7. Engine

 

[DougBaker]

It is worth considering upgrading your hearing protection to make long journeys less of a chore.

I got myself some custom molded bluetooth earbuds and can quite happily listen to the radio/podcasts while doing motorway speeds. If you venture out into Europe to visit the Alpes ( every seven tourer should do this ) there are times when you will want to do serious mileage on the auto-routes to get to the next fun bit of driving. Being able to speak comfortably to your passenger while doing that or simply listen to an audiobook while driving makes the miles fly by.

I think the 160 has a cigarette power socket already, but if not installing one to keep devices charged would be a good option.