The split column and clamp and grub screw are there to allow a small amount of adjustment and to prevent the wheel and upper part of the column being forced into the driver in an accident.
#7: Note that, with the grub screw and clamp removed, the upper column should rotate freely over the lower. If yours doesn't, now would be a good time to free them up.
Yes, should be freed up for safety reasons.
Ah, OK. That makes sense. It's off the car now so I'll soak it and work on it over the next few days / weeks.
Getting quite excited now - not far off being ready to take to Arch. Loosened off all the front running gear bolts this pm just before rain and darkness stopped play. I'm expecting lots of shouting and swearing when I try to remove the top ball joint from the uprights...After that It's just the rear suspension and diff to get out and then it's off for a refresh and a few tweaks!
Obviously the sliding joints are/were seized together ?
They appear to be. I'm soaking in PlusGas and I'll give it a going over whilst the chassis is at Arch...
Perhaps try clamping the lower column in a vice (soft jaws if possible) using the flat on it and use the steering wheel on the upper to try and turn. If you need to resort to hitting things use a copper hammer if you can (or at least something soft between the hammer and column)
1985 S3 1700 XFlow. Undergoing full restoration
Good plan. Will do. I've also just bought a heat gun so some gentle warming might help...
Just use a BIGGER HAMMER !
If you have to resort to a "gentle adjuster" to separate top and lower columns, please check the corners of the cut out on the upper column for any sign of cracking. Having had this fail on me (meaning I ended up holding a useless, disconnected steering wheel while turning across a fast dual carriageway a number of years back) you'll understand why this is a failure mode that's particularly dear to me
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