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Sump heat spot and sealant pattern


Chris300

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Hi, further to previous post on sump refitting issues...

Cracked sump, removed witg help of Guide on here, repaired at fabricator, refitted by following guide. 

Took for a test drive and oil pressure gauge went to zero. Pulled over straight away and engine off. Checked oil level and fine, checked for leaks and none visible at that point. Figured it was the gauge so fired up and gauge was showing full pressure and then dropping to almost zero, intermittently. Got the car home, about 5 miles and dropped oil and sump. 

Think the sealant pattern could be the issue. Tried to follow pattern from when I took sump off, but was hard to see and looks to be gaps. So firstly does anyone have the correct pattern they can share please? 

Second thing, on the sump plate a heat spot has now appeared. Anyone have an idea of what may cause this? Link to photos. Before and after, to illustrate heat spot. Thank

EDIT: to save you reading on, heatspot resolved. Fabricator applied heat when releasing a seized alen bolt

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What is your engine configuration? I had similar symptoms with my dry-sumped K-Series when the dry sump pump scavenge was shot. The scavenge pump couldn't keep up with the pressure pump, a blockage caused by using a non-anaerobic sealant could maybe cause this.

Stu.

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Chris, that's a silicon sealant which will set in air. If you have too much on the mating faces there might be chunks of it that have broken away and are now blocking the oil pickup. You'll need to strip the sump right back to inspect the pickup gauze.

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When I refitted my wet sump, I used the Ford sealant supplied by Raceline with the sump kit (Ford P/N 1217470).  It's an RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) silicone sealant.  You can get this online or from any Ford dealer.  The Raceline sump kit (same as CC's own) also included a PDF of fitting instructions.  PM me your email address if you'd like a copy.

Looking at your pics, there are sections of sealant bead that remain uncompressed -- adjacent to the dipstick boss, and along the rear flange.  That suggests to me that the sump may not be making full and even contact with the block.  Are all surfaces scrupulously clean and free from old sealant, including where the timing cover meets the block at 90 deg?  Alternatively, the bead itself may not be correctly located opposite the mating block surfaces.  Note that the rear section needs a good thick bead.

That heat spot is really puzzling.  Assuming it wasn't there to start with, the only thing I can think of is blow-by on cyl#4 -- which must be extremely unlikely!

JV

 

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Thanks John will PM for the PDF. Thought same on sealant not looking compressed. Thought I did a thorough clean though so not sure why that would be, unless bouncing back to original shape as only on a short while. Yeah heat spot is puzzling. Thanks again. 

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Sent PM thanks and yes baffle was.removed before the weld.... that said now just remembered I gave sump to fabricator with baffle on as had a threaded alen bolt... they must have applied heat to release it. That would make sense. Sorry all, completely forgot that bit if detail!

With the oil pressure gauge dropping was thinking I had a bigger issue. Issue is just memory it seems 

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