S3 short end allen key for gearbox filler plug

[PEC]

Dear All,

Apart from shortening the short end of an existing key to less than 15 mm, would anyone have an "easy" solution, the ideal being an off the shelf product, probably with a specialist tool maker?

Thank you very much

[Dave connors]

This is my solution the end of an Allen key and a ratchet spanner works well for me

[Jonathan Kay]

Same as Dave connors. 

But NB the crucial choice of the type of ratchet spanner. If you use the sort that has to be reversed to go the other way you can get into the situation where the key can't be removed because it's up against the panel. Now imagine that the gearbox was overfilled at the post-build inspection and you didn't know...

Jonathan

PS: Or you can cut an access hole in the tunnel.

[PEC]

Thank you very much. I can read the "Toolzone" brand on the tool. Would you have the precise reference of it?

Did you cut the allen key?

[SM25T]

Second the comments on ratchet spanner. If the plug isn't fully out of the thread when the hex bar hits the chassis or tunnel wall, you are stuck if you can't reverse the ratchet with a lever ! You might be lucky and undo the gearbox mount and push it sideways a bit.

[Tazio]

Yes , just cut the allen key down, I use a small ring spanner, for the reasons stated above.

[Jonathan Kay]

How does a ring spanner help, please? 

I use a ratchet spanner with a lever that controls the direction.

Jonathan

[Bristol and Bath AR]

I've used these on my Type 9 gb: 'Stubby hex keys'. Need to get the set with the 10mm key as there are two sizes of sets

[Tazio]

Jonathan,

I have a cut down 10mm allen key and a spanner that one end is a 10mm ring spanner, the other a 10mm open ended spanner, I use the ring spanner to do the initial 'cracking' of the filler bolt , then swap ends and use the open end once the filler bolt is moving.

Alan

[Jonathan Kay]

Thanks. Got it.

Jonathan

[Tom_Arundel]

Also...you don`t need all the taper threads on the plug, they can be shortened down to the core diameter by about 6mm, which gives better engagement and is quite a lot less fiddling 

[Wrightpayne]

I cannot visualise this - have you got a pic or sketch to show what you have done?

On my car with original 5sp sierra box and now 6sp caterham box I've never had any difficulty with the fill plug. I always go under the car from the opposite side to the plug so your fingers naturally bend towards the plug. Plug between both index fingers and push one up / one down to turn the plug.

I have a cut down allen key to 'crack' it undone then use above method to remove. I sometimes add a bit of steel tube over allen key to add leverage and get my knuckles away from anything sharp! 

[ScottR400D]

#12 That's basically what I do but with the cut off Allan key, 10mm spanner (or is it 3/8", I forget) on it and a tube over that to crack. Then a couple of turns with the spanner and the Allen key can be removed and the plug taken out by hand. 

I can see the risk of screwing out until hitting the chassis panel and being stuck but never had that issue. I'm pretty sure the plug would be out before my bit of Allen key hit the panel. 

I have an SV though, maybe it's a touch wider there? 

[Jonathan Kay]

And perhaps not all lengths of key are created equal!

: - )

Jonathan

[Drumster]

This had been a very useful set for those tight fitting spaces. Purchased from Halfords many years ago but not sure if it's still available?

[Mrp]

I've got the same #15

[john milner]

I have a set of drain plug keys and one just about fits but it is very tight. SV chassis and five speed Sierra gearbox.

I would not recommend using any form of ratchet unless you are sure you will not trap it in the reducing space.

I have never seen a bulk buy of cut down Allen keys.

[ScottR400D]

It's not hard to cut an Allen key with a Dremel.

Following this thread I've bought an extra long 10mm double ended ring. Ratchet at one end plain the other. 292mm long.

I've cut a piece off a 10mm Allen key, after grinding the end down to .375" hex so now I can use the same long spanner on both the drain and fill. (6 speed)

I started the job just to see if I could grind down the hex accurately enough by hand and it was fairly easy, you're only taking 0.25mm off each flat, and it fits the socket very well. 

I'm aware of the trapping risk but my intention is to make the stepped Allen key short enough to eliminate that risk.  (Or be very careful!)

[timb2117]

Basic, low rent but works a treat.

 

[grumpy the 7th]

All of the above suggestions work except the hole in the tunnel side, I've got a diagonal frame that just obscures the drain plug.

I use the spanner and cut down 10mm hex key BUT also put a bit of gaffer tape over the hex bit and press it into the ring before cracking the drain plug. That way you don't have to get out from under the car to look for something with flat sides that falls out and rolls for yards to the other side of the garage.

[TexasDreamer]

Whats the best method for getting the oil in without dripping it on the seats and carpet? 

[John Vine]

Re #21:

On my 6-speed, I run a length of nylon tubing down the rear of the engine bay to the filler hole.  I then attach a small plastic funnel to the tubing and add oil until it flows out of the hole.

JV 

 

[Jonathan Kay]

I don't use the approach from the cockpit through the tunnel wall. But if I did I'd use a squeezy bottle with a long tube, warmed oil, and some rags in place.

Jonathan

[DanRo]

I did this on a Type 9 last weekend. I used a 10mm Allen key, cut to a short stub with a dremel (lots of sparks).
 

This enabled the filler plug to be loosened from under the raised car and I could then just turn it with outstretched fore and middle finger to remove.
 

I used a small 100ml syringe with a rubber tube attached to progressively suck out just over a litre of oil. I managed to poke it into the hole with a small screw driver and lots of bad words. The Sealey Oil Syringe and tube I had bought for this purpose was useless. 
 

From the engine bay, I then used the useless Sealey to poke down the slot beside the bell housing and a pair of curved pliers to stuff its tube into the filler hole. 

I was able to use the Sealey as a funnel to fill up with Redline MTL. Worryingly, less appeared to go in than had come out by the time it started dripping from the filler hole. 
 

Re-screwing the plug also needs some bad words to achieve, just make sure you look at the angle at which you offer it up, relative to the thread.  Also remember a head torch, so you don't need to do the above with a torch in your mouth; it inhibits swearing. 
 

Having driven the car yesterday, I think the change is more rifle bolt like, but I'm prepare to accept that this might be subjective. 
 

 

 

[Youds7]

Re: #22 

What diameter tubing do you use?