Removing Dash / Scuttle

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JP
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Removing Dash / Scuttle

So the strip down has started and the next step is to get the dash out.  I want to strip the car down into as few large chunks as possible.  Is it realistic to try to remove the dash, scuttle, instruments and wiring as one unit?

If so, any tips?  This isn't covered in the Assembly Guide.  I have heard that the scuttle assembly is only held on with the 2 large bolts through the stanchion on each side.  Is  that correct?  If so, can I undo those and expect to lift off the entire dash and scuttle assembly, disconnecting wiring as I go?

All tips gratefully received, please.

James

Wrightpayne
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Simply, no.

the scuttle and vertical panel will come off as one piece which gives access to the wiring / gauges etc.

The two parts of the scuttle assembly are riveted together - many have replaced the rivets with rivnuts and bolts which makes access to the wiring far easier.

JP
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Thank you.  Will investigate further.  The C7CAT rebuild website is proving a very useful reference source..

Tazio
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When Ian( Wrightpayne) and I did a couple of rebuilds as he said the scuttle and it's front panel came off as one, then we pulled the dash including all instruments and wiring, including the fuse/relay panel off as a unit, just made sure we labelled and wrote a wiring list for all the loom connections first. 

JP
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Tazio, that is very helpful.  Looking at the new scuttles on the CC parts page, it looks as if nothing other than the heater goes strictly through the scuttle front panel.  The pics look as if there are cut outs on the bottom edge for wiring etc to pass under the front panel.

Quick wiring question too - is the main loom all one piece, or is there a connector that allows the rear section to be disconnected from the front before it disappears downs the tunnel?  Or will I have to disconnect all wiring at the rear and release the loom from the clips / zip-ties under the tunnel before attempting to remove the dash with wiring complete?

The reason for my rebuild is strictly the chassis condition only.  Everything else is fine and so I don't need nor want to strip everything down to the last component and Arch are content for me to deliver a skinned but stripped chassis to them...

Ed White
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On a very similar note, does anyone have any details on the conversion that makes the scuttle top removable, while leaving the front panel on the car, for ease of inspection of wiring etc? I've seen it done and it seems very sensible, and something I fancy on my rebuild. I asume you just rivnut the scuttle top and leave the front fastened to the chassis.

TIA Ed

SLR No.77
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Ed, I made up a 15mm wide ally strip that matched the profile of the full top edge of the bulkhead panel, it needs to finish just short of the chassis top rail to enable the return on the lower edge of the scuttle to pass underneath although that will be clear when you get started. Similar material to the bulkhead itself is ideal.

This new strip was then clamped to the cockpit side of the bulkhead to enable 4mm holes to be through drilled to exactly match the position of the original rivets, the strip was then removed and the holes re-drilled in the strip to take M4 rivnuts, IIRC the size is 6.5mm.

With the 24 rivnuts in the new strip, a little silicon sealant can be added in the spaces between the rivnuts and the strip refitted to the cockpit side of the bulkhead, the sealant bonding the strip in place, M4 screws can be used in the original bulkhead holes to clamp it all correctly while it dries.

Job done, the scuttle can now be secured with M4 screws and will be exactly located as previously. If you fit rivnuts directly into the bulkhead panel the scuttle will be incorrectly pushed forward slightly hence the reason for the extra strip.

Stu.

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Wrightpayne
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Stu,

You can get 'thin sheet' rivnuts that leave very little protrusion. Lot less of a phaff!!

I think I used M3 bolts on mine, flange socket heads as my full scuttle was painted and these covered the unpainted bit exposed when drilling the rivet out.

Ian

PS could be M4 - not near car to check!

Wrightpayne
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Also had to modify the fia resistor bracket...

Ed White
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Thanks both, cheers, Ed

JP
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So this weekend's plan was to get the scuttle and dash off.  The engine is out and the wiring is all disconnected, but I've stalled at the scuttle stage.

3 of the 4 hex head bolts that hold the stanchion on to the scuttle - and I believe secure the scuttle to the car - are seized solid.  2 of them are so tightly locked that my hex key socket is twisting and one of them is moving and feels as if a rivnut on the other side might be spinning (is there a rivnut?).

I think the dremel will come out to fix this and hopefully I will not trash the stanchion.  However, I'm not sure what the bolts bolt into.  Will grinding the heads of the bolts solve the problem or will I still have problems removing the scuttle from the remaining threaded part of the bolts?

Any suggestions gratefully received...

James