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Removing and re-installing a Duratec engine -- new guide


John Vine

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  • Area Representative

Good explanation on 'how to' JV.

For those with a dry sump there is of course extra work. I found that the thinnest foam pipe insulation is excellent protection for the top angled chassis bars.

What about these 'extras' ?  Inspect & replace engine mount & gearbox rubbers, clutch, clutch release bearing & slave cylinder as necessary.  For the hidden components it would be a mistake not to then have to remove the engine/box combo again.

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Re #7:  Interesting point, David.  Would a single central stand work with a CSR?  I was thinking that there's a vertical chassis member there?   I guess that wouldn't be such a good idea on an S3.

Re #8: Thanks, Alan!

Re #9: Thanks, Nick.  I'll include that.

JV

 

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Nice one JV, *thumbs_up_thumb*

Might be worth noting that your using standard CC engine location, those of us using the Raceline engine mounts and bellhousing benefit form and extra inch of clearance meaning the engine pops out in an S3 without the gearbox easily - particularly useful is your garage roof is quite low, or like me you have a storage area in the pitch.

 

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  • Area Representative

One of my area members (North Wilts) has just successfully fitted his Duratec/gearbox assembly in to the chassis while situated in the lounge/living room !!

Don't ask !!

JV - Maybe an addition to your guide is 'the job can be accomplished even in your lounge or living room'  *yikes*

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • Support Team

Great work John.

If anyone else has written or would be prepared to write a guide then please contact me. It can be as short or long a job as you like but if you think a fellow owner (especially a new one) could get some help from your experience then please give it a go. John has set the gold standard with step by step instructions, photographs and lists of parts and tools but any documented tips or instructions are useful.

Shaun

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