Rebuild tips please - stage 1 - strip down

[JP]

So summer is done and now it's time to start the strip down of my 1999 K-series with the aim of getting it off to Arch comfortably before Xmas - I hope to have it back on the road in spring.

Mechanically it is in reasonable nick, but the chassis, in particular the rear basket and de-dion have suffered from being stored up in a barn for the last 10 years.

Looking for tips on the best sequence for strip down.  I want to try to dismantle it into large bits: engine/gbox, dash hopefully with all wiring attached, etc.  Is this unrealistic?

As for sequence, I'm thinking engine and gbox out first, which should make the car lighter and easy to push around as other parts are removed.  Does that seem sensible?  I've only taken the engine out alone before, never with the gbox attached.  I'd like to take it out with the oil still in it as it will sit outside for a few weeks while the chassis is away, but I may struggle as I have since fitted an Apollo.  Can I get the gearbox out without draining the oil or will it all spill out of the rear as I tip up the gearbox to remove it?  Also any tips for where to attach the crane?  I have a Clarke crane with load leveler, but no lifting eyes for the k-series.

Thinking then strip everything else - suggestion for sequence much appreciated - culminating in the front and rear suspension last.

Planning lots of photos, boxes and labeled bags for reassembly. 

Any strip down advice gratefully received.

James

[Drumster]

Have a look here for ideas http://c7cat.com/Rebuild.htm

[Jonathan Kay]

As you say: Label, label, label; photograph, photograph, photograph.

Annotate a copy of the Assembly Guide as you work.

List all of the fasteners etc that need to be replaced as they come out.

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Specialist tools in the Register of Equipment for Loan.

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Jonathan

[JP]

Thanks for that, Drumster.  Very helpful and pleasing to see that it was managed in 8 months!

[Tazio]

Wrightpayne and I have stripped and rebuilt a couple over the last 3 years or so.  It is straight forwards but as Jonathan says, take loads of photos now, especially of how electrical things are connected and label everything clearly, I simply labeled all wires with a simple A,B,C and 1,2,3 etc labels from RS Components and kept a written list where they all went to.  I did a belt and braces approach with the labels and covered them in sellotape too. 

We always started with cooling system draining and removal, plus headlights etc, as it gives more elbow room then engine and box etc.  A the rear we didn't undo the hub nuts, we removed the calipers and undid the rear hub bearing carriers from the de dion and pulled the driveshafts, complete with discs etc though the ears. One thing NOT to do is pull the drive shafts out from the diff just by pulling the hubs, use one hand to pull the shaft from the diff end as you pull the hub with the other, as you run the risk of pulling the CV joints apart and dislodging the springs.

We take the dash out complete with all the instruments and wiring attached.

A disassembled car takes up an awful lot of space, I had to negotiate with SWMBO, use of the spare bedrooms... also you need loads of small storage boxes for the nuts and bolts taken off, we used those takeaway meal boxes, they have good lids, easy to write on and stack well.

Whilst it's at Arch think of little things you might want, I have a fixed underbonnet diagonal made into a removeable, and i always get Bruce to braze a stud on the chassis around the diff cradle which I use as an earth point for the rear electrics. Also, consider powdercoating the inside of the outer panels to help prevent further corrosion, also get Bruce to leave the internal panels off so you can Dinitrol everywhere before they are refitted.

Sorry for the rambling, any questions, just ask.

Alan

[JP]

Tazio, that's great.  Thank you.  Clearly, I have a job ahead of me clearing out the shed this weekend to accommodate all the bits.Thanks also for the tips on future corrosion-proofing - I'll speak to Bruce about those.

Thanks also for the tips on the rear driveshafts. 

As for removing the engine and box, can I remove these without draining the oil of will it all spill out of the rear of the gbox?  The engine and gbox will be stored in the back garden under a tarp over winter during the rebuild and so I would be more comfortable if they were full of oil while laid up.

[Drumster]

If you're thinking of changing the dash layout then let Bruce know as he'll able to cut one out to your spec. Also as I was going to be sprinting the car I had Bruce add towing eyes to the remaining corners to make 4. As mine was a '93 chassis I also had the diff mounts strengthened and extra protection added in the tunnel.

And finally another thought, be prepared to spend more than you budget for........ new fittings packs, PPF, refurb of bezels on the gauges.....

[Shaun_E]

To answer the question about taking the gearbox out, yes, as soon as you remove the prop shaft, the gearbox oil will drain out, especially when you tilt the gearbox. How do I know? Well I turned my lino floored garage into a skating rink when I first did this many years ago .

Definitely take loads of photos - more than you think as it's so easy to forget how something fitted. Location of wiring harness, brake pipes, fuel line to engine (and return). Label everything carefully in a way that can't be easily damaged - I used masking tape which I wrote on with biro but if I got fluids on it, it became unreadable so use something better.

While the chassis is at Arch, do have the panels powder coated on the inside - makes a massive difference.

[TomB]

I did this a couple of years ago, at a similar time of year.  I started after SORN in October, and it took much longer than planned - I think I got back on the road August/ September in time to go away again.  But I wasn't rushing - I was determine to do the best I could even if it took longer.  

I initially set out to just have the car repainted, but before I did, I wanted Arch to inspect the chassis and check it was true, with any rectification.  However one thing led to another and Arch ended up replacing all exterior skins (sides, rear and scuttle) and dealing with any corrosion they found.   Arch transported it down to TSK in Kent for painting, then TSK brough it back home.  They are used to working together, so give Bruce/ Phil at Arch, and Tony at TSK and see if they can work out something similar.

The powder coated engine bay/ side panels is worth doing - not only does it look smart but thanks to the coating, the steel/ali contact leading to bi-metallic corrosion in the side panels is in theory eliminated.     

So my project wasn't a full rebuild as such, it was a reconditioning exercise, with new skins, paint and the chassis checked and treated as necessary.  With more budget Id have done the full shot blast/ recoat etc, but it was more than I really wanted to spend.  

 

[John Vine]

Re #6:

IMO, draining the oil first will avoid a lot of mess.  And you can always put it back in the box later for storage.

If you have a 6-speed box, there'll be a drain plug.  AFAIK, the 5-speed Type 9 doesn't have one, so you'll need to siphon/suck it out.   I've never used one, but there are good reports of PELA.

A tailshaft bung works well (but you need to be quick when you pull out the prop!):

This came with my 6-speed.  I don't know if you can still get them, but if you're stuck you're welcome to borrow mine.

JV

 

[JP]

Thanks again, all. 

Mine's a 5-spd sierra gbox and I'm going to keep that.  I guess I'll be sucking the oil out before removing or I'll be in touch for the bung!

Mine's currently bare ali and I've decided to keep it that way, so I'm going for all new panels and lowered floors.I'll get the insides powder coated.

The prompt for this is that during the lay up for 10 years, the rear basket has rotted badly and the de-dion is corroded along with the rest of the frame looking tatty (but I suspect structurally sound).  If I'm going to have the rear basket done, I might as well strip it myself and get the rest of the chassis done properly.

In my years off whilst the 7 has been laid up. I've been tinkering with old Land Rovers and rebuilt 2 on galvanised chassis, so I've got a bit of rebuild experience, just not with the 7.  The main thing I've learned is to plan the time for doing the job and then just get on with it quickly and efficiently.  If delays creep in, it risks becoming a never ending project and you forget where things go...

[7 wonders of the world]

If you split the engine form the gearbox you can stand in the engine bay and pull the box off the prop with zero oil loss.

Bare ally    How the 7 is meant to be   BM if you want an excellent polishing guide shred with me by another member

Dinitrol 1000 clear penetrates and protects the panels when the chassis arrives back form Bruce

[JP]

Thanks 7 Wonders. 

Yes, if you could share the polishing guide that would be great - I'd like to keep the original bonnet if possible, but it's quite pitted etc.  Would be great to be able to bring it back to life.

I'll look at the dinitrol 1000...  Thanks again.