Hate to ask for further help on this...
Background: car is a Supersport R 210, Duratec, wetsump. Link below is my previous forum post where i refitted the sump after a weld and had an oil pressure problem and the sump was leaking oil around the seal. Following advice given, i believe the sump is fitted correctly now and the sealant pattern was the issue (thanks John and 7 Wonders for sending the info needed).
The problem now, is that when i turn on the ignition the oil pressure gauge moves to zero from its lowest point (think this might be normal). When i turn over the engine the needle shoots to the highest point and then back to zero and stays there. So turned engine off straight away. There are no leaks visible. I have checked other posts (site:lotus7.club duratec oil pressure) and couldn't see anything the same, but does this sound like the sender unit is faulty?
Edit: uploaded video as a gif though didnt work. Here is a video with sound, but will be a temporary link link: https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/uZ15RjFUWxWG
"I have checked other posts (site:lotus7.club duratec oil pressure) and couldn't see anything the same... "
Good search strategy. But I now use "site:caterhamlotus7.club term1 term2... ". The old sitename does work but I don't know if using the new sitename finds more.
I know that modern Sevens flick their instrument needles, but does that happen at Ignition ON or when the engine turns over? Is it the same for all of the instruments, including the oil pressure gauge, and has it always done it?
Does it have a separate sensor for an oil pressure warning light?
With traditional senders and gauges you can test the sender and the gauge separately. Disconnect the sender from the loom.
1 To test the sender set a multimeter to resistance and if there are two terminals on the sender measure between them and if there's one measure between that and earth. Measure at rest and as the engine turns over for a bit.
2 To test the gauge: turn the ignition ON. Touch the signal wire which connects to the sender to earth and watch the gauge as you do this.
Please will someone correct this if it doesn't work with modern senders and gauges.
Thanks for adding the video.
I think that's a traditional all-analogue set-up.
So any flicking to full scale deflection is abnormal.
And testing the sensor and gauge as above should work fine.
(And I'd get on with identifying a replacement sender and supplier in parallel... Redline?)
Thanks Jonathan. Added a video to the post showing the issue more clearly. All instruments to seem to flicker with ignition ON. Not sure if there is a separate sensor, will see if i can work that out later today. Will also have a go at the tests suggested, thanks, and will keep an eye on any additional comments on testing the modern gauges.
Thanks, our messages crossed. Will do the tests. Also thanks for updated search term :)
: - )
I fitted a mechanical gauge to my wet sump Duratec and it goes over 100 PSI with new oil when cold which disconcerted me somewhat but it's been fine for thousands of miles since so I'm not that surprised that yours goes full scale - what did it go to before you had your sump problem? The way it goes below zero shows an electrical problem and probably the oil pressure is fine - my previous K Series did it once on the M3 but that turned out to be the alternator coming loose and resting on the pressure sender connection!
Unplug the injectors, then just turn it over for a little bit and see if the gauge comes back to normality.
Olly Amos - 2008 Caterham Superlight Sigma 150
Hi Tony, before sump issue it was completely different behaviour would idle at about 1.5 to 2 bar and go as high as about 6 with full revs.
Thanks Amos, will add that ti list of what to try and report back