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K series coolant antifreeze replacement


glasgow

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Decided to take the nose off today, I discovered there is no coolant in the plastic bottle... ☹️

 

I am not sure what type of coolant/antifreeze the prevoius owner used and when it was last replaced. Done some search in the earlier threads and google, but getting too technichal and some "scary" information about mixing up different types of coolants..... I think it is wise to replace the coolant/antifreeze not just top up.....

 

 

She is Roadsport-Xpower 1.8L, K series. It has an aluminium radiator (Not totally sure but looks like an aluminium to me...). *confused*

 

Caterham website sells Comma Coolant XStream premixed but out of stock. Went to Comma website but found different types: G30, 40, 48 and 05, premixed and concentrate.... Halfords also has different products.....

 

 

I would value your views about the suitable coolant/antifreeze for K engines. Any advice about emptying the coolant and flushing out the engine?

 

Regards

 

Ahmed

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I use Comma Coldstream (blue stuff) .... available at car accessory shops. If you empty the system (with heater valve open (on) and flush it through with a hose, doesn't really matter what you use, as any decent brand will work with all engine materials these days.

 

Important thing is to work out where the coolant has gone ! Are there any tell tale marks at hose ends, or from water rail above exhausts ? How long have you been driving it, and not checked this *eek*

 

Fill the system very slowly, with the heater valve open, to help chase the air out of the highest point..

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G30 Red is what I have and I believe is recommended - it better be after all the reading I did on the subject *biggrin*

Buying the concentrated one is buy far cheaper, just mix it with water 50/50.

If you dont know what was in the system before make sure you flush the entire system with clean water first.

Refilling can be a mission, but my main pointer is to have the front as high up as possible.

There is plenty on this subject if you search for it - just take your time and don't rush it.

 

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Thank you SM25 & Chris....

 

Last time I checked the coolant level was in November when I took the nose cone off to install Ooga horn... 😬 Drove the car quite a few times since (lets say about 600-900 miles).... I saw no signs of leak today, but will check it again tomorrow... ☹️

 

After flushing the system with tap water, do I need to run the engine with the water in it until it is hot, drain water, wait until engine is cold then repeat the same for another couple of time? (read something about this) *confused*

 

Before I fill the system with the coolant, do I need to use diluted water to "clean" the tap water (may be I'm too particular because it is my first 7..!)

 

How many coolant litres would K engine, 1.8, Xpower take? Is 5 litres enough?

 

Thank you...

 

Ahmed

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Having seen the inside of our kettle, I elected to dilute my Comma with distilled water purchased from the motor factor where I got my Comma from.

 

That may be overly cautious, but on the Get To Know Your 7 session run at CC Midlands, the clear pitch was that the change of coolant was to ensure that the anti-corrosive properties of the coolant (especially important to stop the furring up of the water galleries of the K) and that this was equally as important to stopping overheating as any heat transfer and anti-freezing properties over just water.

 

Edited by - jingars on 28 Mar 2011 09:17:32

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The furring of the rails as an issue might be dependant on whether you live in a hard or soft water area. Also a kettle is filled and refilled repeatedly to get significant deposits whereas a cars coolant system is not.

 

Some coolants are for Aluminium engines which the K is. May be an idea to see what comes out when you drain it and how much.

 

Perhaps it would be an idea to fill it with plain water and run the engine up to temp and check to see if there is a leak etc. At least you are only going to lose water and not your newly purchased anti freeze.

 

Hope it goes ok

 

Fil

 

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Take your distilled water. Add it to antifreeze. Tip into engine - internally bits will be rusty, bits will be aluminium oxide, bits will be disintegrating rubber and plastic. If you've been really unlucky, bits of the cooling system will be nicely protected with an oily layer.

 

So I figured the distilled water wouldn't remain too "pure" for very long . . . Tap water for me.

 

Bri

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I think i found where the leak is comming from.....

 

There is a hose between the engine and the heater. There is a connection in the hose where there is a 2 inches black hard plastic tube. This connection is loose and leaking what looked like "Thick" water or "thin" oil...!!! *confused* http://www.flickr.com/photos/53629241@N02/5571020756/. (The yellow arrows show the hose and the red arrow points to where the plastic tube is connected in the hose (not clearly seen in the pic as i couldnt get the camera in).

 

I take it this hose takes water to or from the heater. But not sure what this plastic tube does? And, is it ok for the leaked fluid to look like thin oil?

 

Cheers

 

A

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That's not encouraging. There should be no oil in here, the water will have antifreeze in it but that's all. Have you checked the oil is clear? If it's milky or there is any mayonnaise in the cam cover you do have a problem.

 

Re distilled water, I wouldn't. It's corrosive. If you want the council of perfection then take tap water, boil it in the kjettle, let it cool, chuck it through a coffee filter or a cloth and put that in. That way anything that's going to cause scale will do it in the kettle.

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Distilled water is corrosive? Can you give some links for that?

 

I know it is only Wikipedia, but against that distilled water it states; "Distilled water is preferable to tap water for use in automotive cooling systems. The minerals and ions typically found in tap water can be corrosive to internal engine components, and can cause a more rapid depletion of the anti-corrosion additives found in most antifreeze formulations"

 

The link to back that up is dead, but I believe that it links to this PDF from the Utah Dept of Environmental Quality which states; "Over time, antifreeze becomes contaminated with traces of fuel, oil, metals (such as copper, lead, and zinc particles), and dirt. It also breaks down to form acids that corrode cooling systems. When mixed with anything other than de-ionized (distilled) water, dissolved minerals in the antifreeze/water mixture form scale deposits that can block lines."

 

So I am sticking with the distilled water thing.

 

Anyway, on with Glasgow's leak; let's focus on that...

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Oil is definitely clear... No myonaise in cam cover or the water bottle.... *thumbup*

 

Errmm, i have never had a coolant/antifreeze on my hand, but, the leaked water feels like "diluted" washing liquid so you may be right it may be becuase just beacuse of the coolant...

 

And thanks for the advice regarding the tap water....

 

A

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I don't have links but dist water, having no salts already dissolced in it, is very hunbgry to change this. In systems open to the air is pulls CO2 out of the air and becomes a dilute solution of carbonic acid. As there are no salts there to buffer the pH it swings violently to the acid end of the spectrum.

 

I don't know if the difference in corrosivity is significant, still less do I know what it is for where you or anyone else lives. My take is that this is why antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors, thats what they are there for and they will cater for all available tap waters in the UK, whether brown stuff coming off the Pennines at pH4 or chalk slutions coming off the chalk hills of the South West at ph 8 and 250ppm TDH.

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Distilled isn't quite the same as deionised, but behaves similarly - ie it will yank ions from what ever it is in contact with. De-ionised water will corrode 304 stainless stell quite nicely -holes in 3mm tank walls - hence we used to have to upspec to more expensive 316 for our process plant. Run DI through a bronze solenoid vavle - and it will last days and rot away . . . the same type of valve having run for years with tap water.

 

But, as I mentioned before, as soon as you stick your expensive water into your engine, or indeed, add antifreeze to it, it's not expensive water anymore.

 

Back to the leak - has it got a hose clip on the hose to plastic tube?

 

 

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Opinions vary about tap/distilled water - what about just using ready mix coolant? Would be interesting to see if there is any information available how the coolants' companies dilute the concentrate to be a ready mix, do they use tap or distilled water *wink*

 

Yes, Bricol... There are two clips on the hose at the plastic tube. One of them was loose and I tightened them now...... Anyone could please tell what the function of the plastic tube is? *confused*

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The tech spec sheet for Comma Red helpfully just states; "Ready mixed with treated water to prevent scaling of waterways."

 

The sheet for the concentrate states; "Dilute with water, as recommended by your vehicle handbook."

 

So that helps *tongue*

 

Edited by - jingars on 29 Mar 2011 18:12:54

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Sound like it's simply to join two hoses - if it now doesn't leak, then job done. If it bothers you, replace witha longer, all in one, length of 5/8 heater hose from you local motor factors.

 

I have a joiner there in the form of a plastic elbow - hose comes up the side of the engine, turns sharp left and heads for the heater. Did it on build 10 yrs ago to get a neater hose run.

 

Bri

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