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K series and Type 9 gearbox oilchange


Terry Field

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In trying to resolve the stiff gearchange issues it look as though I may have to change the gearbox oil.  Given that there is no bottom drain plug, are there any tips for the best way to remove the old oil?

Also, the clutch bite point is a bit higher than I would like. Is adjustment an easy option?

Thanks

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Terry - re the oil, I used a Sealey Oil Suction Syringe to get out what I could and then used it as a funnel to pour in fresh oil tryin to get the hose down to the bottom - and kept going until what was coming out of the fill hole on the gearbox was clean oil. Bowl/rags at the ready. Not sure if that's the approved method but seemed to work...

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Some have reported getting a pipe into the filler hole and using a syringe (machine mart sell a transmission syringe).

Others have taken the cover off and used a pela pump / syringe. Its a bit fiddly down the tunnel and important to get the big selector tab back into the slot in the cover plate.

A while ago there was also an article from a fellow sevener who fitted a brass plumbing fitting into the lid to make a dipstick hole positioned to aid filling and future oil extraction - do a search of blatchat as it was described with photos (might have been in low flying!) 

 

Ian

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  • 11 months later...

18 months on from buying my car (1.8 K, Type 9, 5 speed) I am still not happy with the gearchange. It just seems too clunky and heavy for fast driving, and not what I would expect from a 'fast' car. Typically third to fourth takes a real pull, and going down from third to second is so slow that I lose all the revs. It also seem to get worse after a long drive - 160 miles today and by the end it was just plain hard work to change gear. My only comparison is with my previous 1700 X Flow which had such a light and responsive gear change that it was a delight to drive. That particular box was built by BHG (Brian) and I would really like him to do the same with this one (apart from the fact that we are now about 200 miles apart!)

I intend to have a chat to my local Somerset group, Simon Houghton et al, and maybe get one of them to drive the car to see what their opinion is.

In the interim, I am going to change the oil to see if that makes a difference, and I was wondering which oil you good folks would recommend. I already have a big syringe, but a methodology statement for an oil change would also help.

All thoughts and comments welcomed!

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Before going the trouble of changing the oil (and standard Ford GL4 should work fine in the 5sp type 9), it's worth checking that the gear stick mechanism is okay. It's been mentioned about lubricating the bearing, but also the pivot point can be adjusted to fine tune the shift ... if you take out the gearstick by removing the three bolts the half of the pivot that is attached the gearstick can be knocked up or down the stick a little, it's an interference fit. Very small adjustment can transform the shift.

Stu.

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Hi Stu,

When I bought the car 18 months ago, the gearchange was really hard. It turned out that the rose joint in the stick was very stiff. The dealer gave me a new gearstick assembly which was much looser and that made a bit of a difference, but not enough. At the time of changing the assembly I also changed the nylon saddle. The two gear assemblies were a bit different, the later one having a deeper 'collar' where it locates into the top of the gearbox. The attached picture shows the deeper collar on the gear assembly on the right hand side.

I am not sure what you mean by the pivot assembly, and I don't feel confident about bashing the gearstick around without fully understanding what I am doing. Which part do I move, how far, and how hard do I hit an interference fit?

It is the fact that I have had the same problem with both gearstick assemblies which leads me to suspect the 'box. Changing the oil seems like a cheap fix to see if anything improves before I try anything more radical / expensive.

Differentforks2.jpg.c7c7bf3830ebcd9b91f3403356c70f04.jpg

 

 

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There are gearbox oil additives like Slick 50 and others that may help reduce friction. May be worthwhile considering when changing oil.

May help Providing though there is no clutch issue, adjustment, clutch disc sticking on input shaft splines etc.

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OP, Neil is spot on, don't add any snake oil to a decent GL4. It's totally unnecessary and can cause problems. 

If you have a decent GL4 in there and still have an issue it isn't going to be solved by any additive, let alone Slick 50, the ultimate snake oil. 

I'm surprised they're still going since the lawsuits of the 90s, the power of advertising I guess.

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Have you tried adjusting the selector locking spring pressure?

OK, where is it? It's socket head screw about 10mm diameter, at the front L/H side, at the top of the maincase, if this is to far in it applies excess pressure, via the spring, to the locking pin behind, which then binds in the gear selector shaft detents, causing poor gearshift action.

Presently this screw on my 'box is about flush with the gearcase face. If you change this, you may have to apply some new thread sealer to the screw to stop any leaking, how do I know this?

Hope you can get your problem sorted without having to remove and dismantle the gearbox.

Nigel.  

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Can't beat good old 'cooking' Halfords 80w-90 GL4. Used in three cars including the R400 & cannot complain. I do change at the ten year point which in the case of the latest car will be at about 25,000 miles when it comes around. 

Beware of additives. If they were required then OE manufacturers would either recommend them, which they do not, or as in most cases the oil already has friction additives of some sort as part of the recipe.

Choice of oil make/type is all down to personal preference & of course the recommendations given.

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I think the easiest option to evacuate the oil is with the lid off and a pela pump. Lots of fumbling down the tunnel from the engine bay!

If the box has to come out ask about getting a drain plug fitted. I'm sure I read one of the specialists fits them in the ally bit between the main case and tail. Also look at getting a filler / level plug in the lid (Quaife make an ally lid with one already present) which can also be used to get the pela extraction pipe in.

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If the gearbox has to come out then it will enable you to remove and examine clutch components and oil seals and replace if the mileage is reasonable or condition is suspect. Whilst box is out also prop shaft u/j's. A lot to look at but peace of mind and removal further down the line not required.

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Re #10:

The gearshift on the right of your pic is the Quaife Quickshift, and should be super-smooth in action. 

It doesn't have an interference pivot.  Instead, you can alter the throw of the lever by reversing the position of the spherical bearing in its housing.  Note that this is not generally needed a 7 as the standard throw is normally fast enough. 

Quaife's advice on lubricating the spherical bearing is "don't" -- it already runs in a low-friction housing (PTFE or similar).  But it's certainly worth checking that it does move freely, especially as it's exposed to road dirt and water.  For info on how to dismantle it, see this Guide.

Clutch drag is a possibility, but as you say your bite point is already high, probably unlikely.  My money would be on something internal in the box.  A call to Phil Stewart at Road & Race Transmissions might shed some light.

JV

 

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I'm with Nigel at #15 - took my 6 speed out (basically your box with a  bit of doodads) and rebuilt it but still had the sticky shift, reset the detent spring assembly as per #15 and night and day difference its like a rifle bolt now and super slick.

Also....(and I fully expect to get hung by our club guys on here who know way more than me).......The guy who rebuilt it swore by straight 40 engine oil only, nothing else......

Could we make the execution really neat so I dont suffer gentlemen? :)

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I'm with JV #20 on this. The original assembly ( on the left in the picture) was incredibly stiff, but the quaife one is very smooth and free moving when removed from the box. I have dismantled it and cleaned it,although there was virtually no signs of dirt or water ingress or contamination.

I am now quite sure that the gearstick assembly is fine. Everything I have done so far points to a 'sticky' box.

I may try to raise the clutch bite point a little more, and it may well be with a chat with Road and Race. Many thanks

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