graearea Posted August 3, 2022 Share Posted August 3, 2022 It seems to me that the bypass for my heater matrix is not stopping the coolant from getting through and I end up with a roasting heater when I want some cold air coming in to cool the footwell. The valve seems all the way closed with the cable all the way in. Is there a better way of doing this? Not looking forward to getting incinerated again. Do I drop out the coolant and put a hose from the top to the bottom and live without a heater for a couple of months? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted August 3, 2022 Member Share Posted August 3, 2022 The cable not closing the valve fully is a common fault. A faulty valve not closing doesn't seem to be. I'd take it out and have a good look and play by hand. And if it can't be persuaded to close then replace it.Connecting the top and bottom hoses directly until it's sorted should work fine.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 4, 2022 Share Posted August 4, 2022 The valve is from a TX1 taxi .... cheap from eBay suppliers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted August 4, 2022 Leadership Team Share Posted August 4, 2022 Ian, an eBay search returns a simple inline heater valve for TX1 taxis, however doing a search for a heater control for a TX2 ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 4, 2022 Share Posted August 4, 2022 Aha ... memory .... I knew it was a TX something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianC Posted August 4, 2022 Share Posted August 4, 2022 I have had a similar issue. First of all check the hoses to the valve are the correct way round. The bottom hose to the valve should come from the back of the head, the top hose returns the coolant. The top of the valve is a straight through connection on the valve ie the valve only operates on the bottom of the valve only (supply). There will always be some heat "bleed" through the top connection.The valves do have a habit of over time letting a small amount of hot water through but it is enough to put significant heat into the heater matrix. I have had 2 faulty valves over the last 5 years.Changing the valve is simple and cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graearea Posted August 4, 2022 Author Share Posted August 4, 2022 how do I find out what kind of tubing that is so I can put a loop in. it doesn't look like there's enough there to do it. is it in a build manual or something?thanks all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 4, 2022 Share Posted August 4, 2022 It is 16mm bore heater hose. Just remove both from valve and join them together, preferably with a barbed straight hose connector. If on tour, a short bit of 15mm copper tube will do .... Both options with hose clamps of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianC Posted August 4, 2022 Share Posted August 4, 2022 In a few weeks time with cooler weather you will probably be reversing this and reconnecting the heater but still with the same problem. Surely far better to replace the valve, speak to Chris @Redline Components, he has them in stock and nearly always next day delivery.If you raise the car as high as possible at the rear and syphon all the water out of the expansion tank you will have little water in the heater matrix to clear up after disconnection. After any changes lower and refill expansion tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevehS3 Posted August 4, 2022 Share Posted August 4, 2022 With the control pushed in fully and the valve against its stop I still get slightly warm air. I wasn't sure if it was simply warm outside air but I think the valve is passing slightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graearea Posted August 4, 2022 Author Share Posted August 4, 2022 nice tip Adrian. thanks.I'll replace the entire thing. they're pretty cheap.in the mean time I'll find some 5/8" /16mm tube and just connect one to the other I think.thanks all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 4, 2022 Share Posted August 4, 2022 Why do it and bleed it twice ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graearea Posted August 5, 2022 Author Share Posted August 5, 2022 cos the bypass doesn't arrive until after my trackday on anglesey this weekend :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graearea Posted August 5, 2022 Author Share Posted August 5, 2022 I may be underestimating the amount of effort blocking off the heater will be. seems bleeding it on an R400 is non-trivial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted August 5, 2022 Share Posted August 5, 2022 14 That depends on set up, my 2015 R400D bleeds very easily with little effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted August 5, 2022 Share Posted August 5, 2022 For the track day, would you get away with just blocking off the heater air intake on the bonnet? I doubt the heater will transfer much heat into the footwells if there's no air flow through it. I'm thinking something as simpke as a rectangle of cardboard over the heater intake before putting the bonnet on. PS: I'm also thinking K Series and I'm aware the heater design changed on more recent cars so if that's just not relevant please ignore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graearea Posted August 5, 2022 Author Share Posted August 5, 2022 blocking the intake would be a bad move. there is a fan duct that you can close to stop the incoming blowtorch.I want cool air in there cos it's too damn hot with the heat coming off the firewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted August 5, 2022 Leadership Team Share Posted August 5, 2022 .... having the heater on will act as a second radiator and aid cooling on track. Just sayin' Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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