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Tom_Arundel
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Where are you?

Amos91
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Also worth speaking to Simon at Meteor Motorsport. My Nitrons are fantastic on road and track. 

Olly Amos - 2008 Caterham Superlight Sigma 150

Dannyboy
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To be fair, I'd personally get someone to give you a baseline set up. You can then refine it to suit your particular style. It sounds like you are a million mikes from where you want the car to be. 

camber- on circuit I'd be expecting 2-2.5 degrees but as stated, this isn't hard and fast and doesn't suit everyone so also don't always listen to the crowd. 
 

Of concern is your dampers, they shouldn't really be sitting on the bump stops. Norton's when set up are bloody lovely ( and out of my meagre race budget). What year us the car, is it wide/ narrow track.. do you know anything about the dampers etc.. Simon could probably tell you in 10 seconds whether they are the right ones for your car- ie open/ closed length which varies certainly pre and post 96 as well as between normal and sidetrack. Not sure if post 96 anti-time dive are any different in length to metric those on metric chassis cars. However, if wrong they would make the car bloody awful. This would be my start point..deduce they are the correct length first before you move forward on anything else.

Anti-roll bars- the norm is red and soft / disconnected at the rear. I personally prefer the green bar but for some reason that just suits my driving style and setup. 

Your tyres look fine! In fact given you said you got understeer I'm surprised they haven't 'blued' on the outer edge, always a good sign you've been trying hard when that appears.. 

Wrightpayne
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In earlier post I think Richard was referring to castor not camber. The castor is adjusted with washers on the lower wishbone. The rear bush needs 4 spacer washers that can be placed either side to adjust the castor. The front fixing needs varying amounts of washers depending how the rear bush is set. The build manual describes the fitting process.

The castor setting determins the propensity for the steering to self centre.

SM25T
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Are the dampers hitting the bump stops or the springs becoming coil bound. ? I have seen some springs that are really short with coils close together.

Richard Price
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"In earlier post I think Richard was referring to castor not camber."

Oops. Yes. I've now edited my post. 

Nigelblandin@gm...
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There is loads of advice here and the beauty of Sevens is that you can learn lots as you go. However, I would suggest a pro baseline set up and ask them lots of questions as you go along.

Then you can play as you go along. 

what ever you do though - only ever adjust one thing at a time. If you do more, how do you learn what does what? 

I find that leaving it until you have real time helps. Then note your current setting on whatever you are looking at. Go one way (bump, rebound, castor, whatever) note down your observations. Then go the other way and do the same.

Put it back where you started and note your observations again - this refers you back to your baseline. Then have a think and choose a direction. If you are happier then great, move to the next item on the list.

If not, go back to baseline, then move to the next item. use the same process and see what effects this change has.

 

It takes forever, but you will learn what you like, what you don't and usually learn that what you originally thought was wrong!

Have fun.

Golf Juliet Tango
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Excellent advice Nigel. 

And explains why I got mine set up and have left well alone.

Stephen

Democratic dissent is not disloyalty, it is a positive civic duty

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Castor does impact on camber as it alters the dynamic camber which is applied during turns, it also affect turn in.

Nigelblandin@gm...
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Words of painful experience Stephen! I was then taught by Ducati racer Geoff Baines at Silverstone the mystic art of...patience.