Jeremyr Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 I'm keen to fit an oil temperature sensor and gauge in my 140 Sigma Roadsport. It looks like the best approach is to replace the sump plug with a new one which can take the sensor. I plan on using the standard gauge obtainable from CC parts however I want to ensure I get the right sump plug and a compatible sender and currently I'm struggling with this. I also need the correct wiring although I understand there should be some tails available for in the front left hand part of the engine bay, and based on the wiring diagram there should be the corresponding wires under the dash. I've had a good look through Tech Talk but can't see this subject raised. Would appreciate any assistance. Thanks Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cornford Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Don't know of this helps, but you might want to consider fitting a temperature strip to the outside of your oil filter housing first in order to check the maximum temperature that your oil has reached at this point. See page 26 of the Think Automotive catalogue. Also page 9 asks the question "What temperature?" Hopefully an export will be along shortly to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliW Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 I've just had my oil pressure gauge replaced with a dual pressure/temp gauge by Racetech. Premier Power did the work for me, and very nicely too. The sender is fitted in a new boss that was added to the sump for that purpose. The drain plug remains as is. (Sigma 150) Oli Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Quoting OliW: The sender is fitted in a new boss that was added to the sump for that purpose. The drain plug remains as is. So did you have a new sump casting or was a boss welded to your current sump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliW Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 It was welded to the current sump on the passenger side. The gauge is mechanical rather than electric. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremyr Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 Any reason why you chose not to use the sump plug? J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 @OilW Thanks for confirming. Approx how much did it cost (please feel free to BM me if you'd rather not state on the forum)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickh7 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 convert you water temp gauge with a simple switch saves having to replace the gauge with a dual one . Up for Oil down for water I've got a K with an Apollo so it was an easy job to run a wire from the sensor but should be just as simple from another sensor where every it is located Nick h Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliW Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Quoting Jeremyr: Any reason why you chose not to use the sump plug? J Not really, but that method was recommended, probably due to the fitment. But it does mean the capillary does not need to be fiddled with each time I change the oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliW Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Double post... Edited by - OliW on 27 Jan 2014 19:26:39 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 This thread might help you, although I suspect the Sigma drain plug is different to the R400D. If it is, maybe you could consider drilling and tapping your plug to take the (same) sensor? JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 I can confirm the wiring is already there on sigma cars, as I used mine to fit an oil warning light. Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKC Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Hi Jeremy, Threaded boss welded on sump as bulb on end of Racetech gauge is too large to go through the center of the standard Ford sump plug as used on the Sigma cast sump. Also Capillary gauge does away with electronic pressure sensor. This is a fit and forget solution and doesn't get in the way when carrying out oil services. Gauge also has a light in the back for visibility at night. Regards SKC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremyr Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 Really appreciate all the advice. I've located the wiring it's just the oil temp sender I need to get sorted. I'd still prefer to use the drain plug if possible but current guidance looks like I need to put in a separate boss in the sump. The R400 link is useful however I need to understand the thread size of the Sigma drain plug to see if this is, by any chance, the same as the R400. Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoops Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 I have done this on my Sigma 150. I used the standard temp sender from CC and a replacement sump plug drilled and tapped to take the 1/8 NPT thread from the sender. The thread for the sump is M14 x 1.5. I used this here Although the package was correctly labelled the item I received was the M10 version so I got it tapped to fit the sender rather than go through the faff of sending back etc. I was told by the local engineering co that the sender thread was indeed 1/8th NPT. I then fitted a switched feed to the current water gauge. Lots in the archive about this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremyr Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 Scoops. This is really helpful. I wish Caterham gave some better information so you could figure this stuff out for yourself. Some more indepth and useful description on the parts on their online store would also be good!! So, looks like my plan is use this sender from CC here which should have a 1/8 NPT and then use the drain plug you suggest from demon tweeks here selecting the M14 x 1.5m and 1/8 NPT option. I actually plan to run this to a new oil temperature gauge as I already have a hole in my dash which I want to reuse, so I intend to get this gauge from CC here. I've found the wiring under the dash and in the engine bay so I think I should be good to go. Have I missed anything? Many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Have I missed anything?Probably not, but you have some duff links. 😬 Try these instead: Sensor Plug Gauge JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremyr Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 Thanks..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoops Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Looks ok to me. A couple of other points you may or may not find helpful You can if you are fairly quick get the current drain plug out and the new plug with sender back in with only a small amount of oil loss and not too much mess. You still need a drip tray just you don't need a full oil change unless you are planning to do this at the same time anyway. Also the sender only has one connection as it's my understanding (wait for a correction) that the metal to metal contact with the thread completes the circuit to earth so don't be tempted to seal with PTFE tape or similar. The NPT should create a good seal as it is tapered. All assuming they send you the correct one unlike me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremyr Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Scoops. This is good guidance. I see no reason why this shouldn't run with just a single sender connection. I'm assuming I'd need a new cooper washer on the drain plug (need to make sure I don't miss that whilst trying to avoid an oil slick!!) Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoops Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I've not had nor added a copper washer and not had any leaks so just went with the sender and the sump plug nothing else and connected the single wire back to the meter job done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremyr Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 So, quick update on my weekend of work in order to close the thread. I purchased the items which I had referenced before (m thx for all the help on this). The sensor was a good fit and the tapered thread ensured a snug fit into the sump plug. The new sump plug came with a washer so I used what I was given. I jacked the front off-side of the car up fairly high to ensure I could get access to the sump plug. The existing released with easy and, using a drip tray, did a quick swap from old to new. I lost about half cupful of oil and job done..... and no leaks. I ran a single cable to the Oil Temp wires in the loom (which were close to the battery). Used the Black/yellow for the sensor wire and left the black (earth) unused as the sensor had a natural earth return. Under the dash I located, tucked around the back of the fuse box, the corresponding end to the black/yellow wire and a green wire. I established the green was a live which became active when the ignition was on. I ran a separate new earth lead from near the wiper motor. So I had all three main power sources. I cut a new hole in the dash (I had an existing small hole from a previous power switch to the left of the dash) using a template, a 5mm drill and some patience I cut a hole in the dash and filed until I had a perfect 52mm hole. The aluminium is easy to work and it took about an hour to get the perfect size hole. I decided to move the fuel gauge to the new hole so that the two temperature gauges are next two each other. The wires were long enough to facilitate this. I then removed the spade connectors on the small red/white and black wires for the backlight of the fuel gauge and added in two spur wires for the new oil gauge. An hour of wiring and crimping and all was good to go. Did a full test this morning and everything works perfectly and the dash looks a thousand times neater with more information to hand. As I used a Caterham oil temp gauge and I managed to get the new hole in a perfect straight line with the other gauges (it's worth spending the time) it looks like it was always meant to be this way So. very happy and a rewarding weekend of work. Thanks again for all the guidance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Well done! All we need now is a pic... 😬 JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremyr Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Dash with new gauge New sump plug Edited by - Jeremyr on 11 Feb 2014 18:59:21 Edited by - Jeremyr on 11 Feb 2014 19:00:22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Very neat job! JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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