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Duratec Dry Sump oil change


Mucus72

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When I get my car back at the end of the week, I am doing an oil change, removing the Miller CRO 10W/40 running in oil, and replacing with Millers fully synthetic 5W/50 that was supplied with my kit.

I have been given differing advice on the oil drain and refill process. I thought I'd document what I think is the best way, for you guys to review, so I can get a definitive process, and maybe help others in future too.

1. run the car for a few minutes to get the existing oil warmed through a little.

2.  Don't use the sump plug on the oil tank, as apparently its soft and easy to damage the thread. Instead, unscrew both the inlet and outlet pipes at their sump attachments (there is a sacrificial section on the sump in case of any tragic threading, and a LOT cheaper than a new oil tank). 

3. Remove and wipe out the "finger filter" rear LHS of engine

4. Remove oil filter 

Then in reverse pretty much, and when everything is tight again:

1. Replace oil filter with a new one, add a little oil into it before refitting

2. Fill 1 litre into the top of the engine and 4 litres into the dry sump tank. 

3. Unplug inertia switch to stop fueling 

4. Unplug crank position sensor (front RHS bottom of engine) to stop a spark.

5. Crank engine until oil Pressure is noted.

6. Then slowly refill to the top of the 1st baffle that you can see in the oil tank.(potentially around 7 to 7.5 litres).

7. Plug crank position sensor and inertia switch back together.

8. Fire up normally.

 

Does this process sound correct to everyone who has done this before? Anything amendments or alternative perspective would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Marcus

 

 

 

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  • Leadership Team

Agree on the use of a Pela vacuum pump/excavator; makes the whole process quick, clean and easy. Well worth investing in.

When I change the oil and filter on my 500D (same configuration as 400D, I'm assuming) I typically find I've manage to remove about 6 litres (maybe just under) of used oil - which becomes the quantity I then add of the new stuff.

James

 

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I have found that the easiest way is 

1) warm up engine 

2) blat to Nick Potter 

3) drink coffee and play with dog while Nick does his thing 

4) Hand over a small sum od cash 

5) Blat home via some far off spot the other side of Lincoln 

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  • Support Team

Get the bigger pump. You then won't have to empty it halfway through the process. It really is as simple as sticking the tube into the dry sump tank, pumping the pump handle a few times and sucking the oil out. I don't even bother warming the engine. There is very little oil in the sump so not essential to drain that but if you have a sump plug then you could drain the sump too (my Raceline sump doesn't have a plug).

I have a Pace easyclean tank and I just remove the centre breather to get the pump tube down to the bottom of the tank - I guess it's probably similar on the Caterham tank.

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I must be the odd one out. 
I get the engine warm, then remove the drain plug from the bottom of the sump tank and the drain plug from the bottom of the sump itself.
Having now heard about the sump drain plug being a possible risk area.. I must admit to being tempted to spend the money on a pump though. :)

 

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  • 5 months later...

I just bought the Sealy 650 following Mucus72's link above but its £50 from Amazon now.........

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000RA16CO/ref=pe_385721_146881391_TE_item

I have used a cheap 12V electric pump for a few years now but its slow, messy and it leaks right at the pump housing, also the power switch died and I had to by pass the switch. Chinese rubbish........this is it.............

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Motorbike-Portable-Diesel-Oil-Transfer-Pump-12V-60W-Extractor-Fluid-Change-/371704216061?hash=item568b4c39fd:g:-WgAAOSw0UdXpypJ

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  • 6 years later...

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