Driver’s Tillett Mounting

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W33SVN
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Thanks Stu, my eye line is currently at the top of the screen almost and in-line with the top of the side screens. I have to look under or over the top of the screeens at junctions.

W33SVN
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Thanks all, seat coming out imminently. Just purchased a number of varying lengths of M8 12.9 high tensile Allen cap bolts to go along with the spacer kit so I can adjust the angle of the seat accordingly.

 

7 wonders of th...
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Remember that fitting lowered floors and reclining the seat effective moves the seat and your hips forward, since the rear bulkhead is the limiting factor so you cant always slide the seat further back. You may find you need to move the pedals in the pedal box to compensate

W33SVN
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Thank you, I've tried to see how to move the pedals, and struggling. Do they move as a complete unit? Or do you need to adjust each individually? I've found lots of posts about adjusting individually 

BrettJ
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Just remember you may have to tilt the seat inwards or it binds on the side skin when using the spaces.

Jonathan Kay
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"Thank you, I've tried to see how to move the pedals, and struggling. Do they move as a complete unit? Or do you need to adjust each individually? I've found lots of posts about adjusting individually"

There are either two or three positions depending on model. That adjustment is described in the Assembly Guide, as below. There are constraints on the position of both the clutch and brake pedals and cables.

Then there's bending the pedal lever, most commonly needed for the throttle pedal.

And for some reason I still need a block on the throttle pedal to get the position right to heel and toe. (Currently a section of mahogany handrail.)

Jonathan

 

 

Colin Heseltine
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To make it easy to refit the tillet seat I use the following trick.  Find three bolts about 40mm long with the same thread as the nut in the base of the runner.  Cut the head of the bolt.  Screw the cut off bolts into three of the nuts on the base of the seat.  Lower the seat into place, the three bolts can easily be aligned with the holes in the floor.  When the three bolts are through the holes the fourth hole will be lined up niceley so you can thread the bolt in from underneath.  Remove the cut off bolts one at a time and replace with correct bolt.

One thing you will find is that without the spacer bars small stones makea horrible noise whgen you move the seat.

Colin

W33SVN
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Thank you Colin, that sounds like a great method. In my 18 months of ownership so far, I've found many a strange noise, diff whine, flywheel chatter, wind noise to challenge Saturn 5 at take off, passengers screaming at me, one more horrible noise will just add to the experience. 

CtrMint
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When I built my 420 with Tillet seats I followed that same process as suggested by most here, ie the box section on the passenger side and the spacers on the drivers side etc.

When I pulled the seats out of my factory built 620R I found the factory had fit some additional and different Tillet branded spacers between the floor and rail on the outer rail of the drivers side.  I've checked the floor of my 620 and it seems flat and rails are same.  My conclusion is such that there is a minor height difference in the rails which causes the seat to be at an angle, something the factory knows about.  I've bought some of the same spacers for the 420 for retro fitting.  I always found the 420 seat a pig to move and hope it will ease that.

Caterham 420R S3 Lotus Toxic Green,  Caterham 620R S3 Exocet Red. Blog: https://www.caterham7diaries.com
CtrMint
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the additional spacers, they felt lightly bonded too.

Caterham 420R S3 Lotus Toxic Green,  Caterham 620R S3 Exocet Red. Blog: https://www.caterham7diaries.com