Driver’s Tillett Mounting

[W33SVN]

Hi folks,

I've read many a topics and build blogs on fitting tilletts, but wondering if mine can be lowered more than they are.

I've a S3 metric chassis with tilletts fitted. I'm 6 feet 1 with comparatively short legs (32" inside leg) and a longer torso. I fit perfectly leg wise, but my head is way up near the top of my trackday roll bar. 
 

Upon inspecting under my driver's seat, I have adjustable runners fitted on top of the sold box section pieces I thought were only used for the passenger seat. This set up raising the driver's seat some 15mm or so more than if just the runners we're used. This however could be the correct set up and I'm after guidance as to whether I could remove the sliders and just solidly mount the driver's seat? The passenger seat, which is solidly mounted sits at exactly the same point rewards as my driver's seat when adjusted for my driving position. This makes me think solidly mounting the driver's seat will provide me the perfect driving position, without the headache of trying to mount the sliders which seems a well documented trial of endurance for all on forums. I'm the only driver, so solidly mounting bothers me not. 
 

I've also bought a genuine Tillett spacer kit to raise the front and recline the seat to give even more head room.
 

Photos below show the underside of my driver's seat

 

[StevehS3]

The box sections shouldn't normally be fitted under the adjustable runners. This is from the build manual 

[StevehS3]

[W33SVN]

Thanks Steve, that's what I found which made me think mine was wrong. I can understand why it's like it I think, as it is, it allows the seat to slide yet still be removed and replaced without the headache of aligning and tightening the loose Allen bolts.

So, I'm thinking I can either remove the box section or the runner to give more head room, albeit retaining just the box section is my preferred (lazy?) option. 

[StevehS3]

I have the drivers side adjustable to get the best position and the passenger side on fixed box sections. I think that is the norm. I find the spacer setup in the diagram works perfectly (but that is personal preference) and allows the handle to fit between the gap correctly- I think that can sometimes be a bit of a faff.
I thought your box sections might have been fitted previously by a shorter driver than needed the seat higher. 

[StevehS3]

I fitted rivnuts to the seat runners so they can be easily removed. Some weld nuts on to them instead. Worth sorting out so you can remove the seats easily for an annual 'sweep the gravel out from under the seat' etc. 

[W33SVN]

I think I could knock a few kilos of weight off my car if I removed all the gravel under my seats.

[Jonathan Kay]

"I fitted rivnuts to the seat runners so they can be easily removed. Some weld nuts on to them instead. Worth sorting out so you can remove the seats easily for an annual 'sweep the gravel out from under the seat' etc."

Yes.

It's also possible to cut a small transverse slot in the free end of the bolt and use that to hold the bolt still with a screwdriver while the nut is run or down. All done from underneath.

Jonathan

PS: Please let me know if you'd like a copy of the appropriate Assembly Guide.

[W33SVN]

yes please Jonathan, every bit of info helps mitigate my ineptitude when it comes to mechanics 

[Jonathan Kay]

: - )

Please send me a Private Message with your email address.

Jonathan

[SLR No.77]

Re reclining the seat, I'm also longer in the body although the other side of 6'.  I've fitted additional 25mm spacers at the front, machined from ally but the standard Tillett washers could be stacked up the same. With lowered floors this positions my eyeline pretty well centre screen.

Stu.

[W33SVN]

Thanks Stu, my eye line is currently at the top of the screen almost and in-line with the top of the side screens. I have to look under or over the top of the screeens at junctions.

[W33SVN]

Thanks all, seat coming out imminently. Just purchased a number of varying lengths of M8 12.9 high tensile Allen cap bolts to go along with the spacer kit so I can adjust the angle of the seat accordingly.

 

[7 wonders of the world]

Remember that fitting lowered floors and reclining the seat effective moves the seat and your hips forward, since the rear bulkhead is the limiting factor so you cant always slide the seat further back. You may find you need to move the pedals in the pedal box to compensate

[W33SVN]

Thank you, I've tried to see how to move the pedals, and struggling. Do they move as a complete unit? Or do you need to adjust each individually? I've found lots of posts about adjusting individually 

[BrettJ]

Just remember you may have to tilt the seat inwards or it binds on the side skin when using the spaces.

[Jonathan Kay]

"Thank you, I've tried to see how to move the pedals, and struggling. Do they move as a complete unit? Or do you need to adjust each individually? I've found lots of posts about adjusting individually"

There are either two or three positions depending on model. That adjustment is described in the Assembly Guide, as below. There are constraints on the position of both the clutch and brake pedals and cables.

Then there's bending the pedal lever, most commonly needed for the throttle pedal.

And for some reason I still need a block on the throttle pedal to get the position right to heel and toe. (Currently a section of mahogany handrail.)

Jonathan

 

 

[Colin Heseltine]

To make it easy to refit the tillet seat I use the following trick.  Find three bolts about 40mm long with the same thread as the nut in the base of the runner.  Cut the head of the bolt.  Screw the cut off bolts into three of the nuts on the base of the seat.  Lower the seat into place, the three bolts can easily be aligned with the holes in the floor.  When the three bolts are through the holes the fourth hole will be lined up niceley so you can thread the bolt in from underneath.  Remove the cut off bolts one at a time and replace with correct bolt.

One thing you will find is that without the spacer bars small stones makea horrible noise whgen you move the seat.

Colin

[W33SVN]

Thank you Colin, that sounds like a great method. In my 18 months of ownership so far, I've found many a strange noise, diff whine, flywheel chatter, wind noise to challenge Saturn 5 at take off, passengers screaming at me, one more horrible noise will just add to the experience. 

[CtrMint]

When I built my 420 with Tillet seats I followed that same process as suggested by most here, ie the box section on the passenger side and the spacers on the drivers side etc.

When I pulled the seats out of my factory built 620R I found the factory had fit some additional and different Tillet branded spacers between the floor and rail on the outer rail of the drivers side.  I've checked the floor of my 620 and it seems flat and rails are same.  My conclusion is such that there is a minor height difference in the rails which causes the seat to be at an angle, something the factory knows about.  I've bought some of the same spacers for the 420 for retro fitting.  I always found the 420 seat a pig to move and hope it will ease that.

[CtrMint]

the additional spacers, they felt lightly bonded too.

[W33SVN]

Thank you, these are the same spacers as I've bought, so will experiment when fitting.

thanks again 

[Bryan]

I popped a spacer in between the floor and the runners recently, as we were having trouble getting the seat all the way forward when my other half was driving (about 5ft tall). The adjustment bar was rubbing on the floor cross member as the seat moved further forward, and it gave it just enough play to get full movement.

[Colin Heseltine]

With my Tillets and the lowered floor in my 420R SV I found could not get the seat to go fully forward, especially when I needed space behind the seat to adjust the crotch straps.  Push the seat back as far as can get it and then put a wooden block about 25mm thick underneath the  adjustment arm to force it up in the air.  Then push down firmly on the bar and bend it downwards, pull up to remove the wooden block and should now be able to move seat forward and the arm will slide below the crossmember.  Just be careful of your fingers when move set forwards.

Colin

[W33SVN]

Thanks Bryan and Colin, the seat is this week's job, and I'm sure after everyone's help, it will be a walk in the park. Maybe not, but certainly easier