Driver’s Tillett Mounting

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Driver’s Tillett Mounting

Hi folks,

I've read many a topics and build blogs on fitting tilletts, but wondering if mine can be lowered more than they are.

I've a S3 metric chassis with tilletts fitted. I'm 6 feet 1 with comparatively short legs (32" inside leg) and a longer torso. I fit perfectly leg wise, but my head is way up near the top of my trackday roll bar. 
 

Upon inspecting under my driver's seat, I have adjustable runners fitted on top of the sold box section pieces I thought were only used for the passenger seat. This set up raising the driver's seat some 15mm or so more than if just the runners we're used. This however could be the correct set up and I'm after guidance as to whether I could remove the sliders and just solidly mount the driver's seat? The passenger seat, which is solidly mounted sits at exactly the same point rewards as my driver's seat when adjusted for my driving position. This makes me think solidly mounting the driver's seat will provide me the perfect driving position, without the headache of trying to mount the sliders which seems a well documented trial of endurance for all on forums. I'm the only driver, so solidly mounting bothers me not. 
 

I've also bought a genuine Tillett spacer kit to raise the front and recline the seat to give even more head room.
 

Photos below show the underside of my driver's seat

 

StevehS3
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The box sections shouldn't normally be fitted under the adjustable runners. This is from the build manual 

StevehS3
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W33SVN
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Thanks Steve, that's what I found which made me think mine was wrong. I can understand why it's like it I think, as it is, it allows the seat to slide yet still be removed and replaced without the headache of aligning and tightening the loose Allen bolts.

So, I'm thinking I can either remove the box section or the runner to give more head room, albeit retaining just the box section is my preferred (lazy?) option. 

StevehS3
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I have the drivers side adjustable to get the best position and the passenger side on fixed box sections. I think that is the norm. I find the spacer setup in the diagram works perfectly (but that is personal preference) and allows the handle to fit between the gap correctly- I think that can sometimes be a bit of a faff.
I thought your box sections might have been fitted previously by a shorter driver than needed the seat higher. 

StevehS3
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I fitted rivnuts to the seat runners so they can be easily removed. Some weld nuts on to them instead. Worth sorting out so you can remove the seats easily for an annual 'sweep the gravel out from under the seat' etc. 

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I think I could knock a few kilos of weight off my car if I removed all the gravel under my seats.

Jonathan Kay
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"I fitted rivnuts to the seat runners so they can be easily removed. Some weld nuts on to them instead. Worth sorting out so you can remove the seats easily for an annual 'sweep the gravel out from under the seat' etc."

Yes.

It's also possible to cut a small transverse slot in the free end of the bolt and use that to hold the bolt still with a screwdriver while the nut is run or down. All done from underneath.

Jonathan

PS: Please let me know if you'd like a copy of the appropriate Assembly Guide.

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yes please Jonathan, every bit of info helps mitigate my ineptitude when it comes to mechanics 

Jonathan Kay
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Please send me a Private Message with your email address.

Jonathan

SLR No.77
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Re reclining the seat, I'm also longer in the body although the other side of 6'.  I've fitted additional 25mm spacers at the front, machined from ally but the standard Tillett washers could be stacked up the same. With lowered floors this positions my eyeline pretty well centre screen.

Stu.

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