Se7enBTCC Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 Can anyone suggest what to do with the original number plate light wiring no longer needed please, is it just tape up and secure out of the way?I seem to be missing a step, Caterham don't mention anything about them.ThanksPaul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 IIRC, you track it back to where it connects into the main loom and disconnect there. BTW, I avoided turning the rear chassis rail into a seive by running the new loom over the fuel tank, well out of the way of dirt and rain: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edmundo2 Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 Good plan. Received my kit and watched the video thinking the same thing..Can I ask where did you get the stick on cable clips and what size they are? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted December 29, 2021 Leadership Team Share Posted December 29, 2021 I added a couple of 6mm spade connectors (o/e type) and fed it through to the boot. I've been trying to think of something it might be useful for but as yet undecided. One thought would be to add a switched boot light, the way it's wired via the headlight switch would eliminate any issues of leaving it on in error.For info, on my 1999 car the RH rear light has a 7.5A fuse whereas the LH rear light has a 5A fuse, I concluded the higher rating is there to include the numberplate light wired from the RH light.Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 #3 Amazon IIRC. Adhesive Cable Tie Bases. One tip, the connector for the new plate/reverse light is too big to fit up between the rear panel and the tank. You need to remove the connector, feed the cable up and refit connector. Easy enough with the right de-pinning tool or a very thin probe to release the pins. The rest of it is very straightforward. Have you fitted the lights yet? Mine had some washers that weren't mentioned in the fitting video but they need to go on the retaining nuts. There are no grommets to fill the new wing holes so road dirt can get through and to the back of the light. I fitted the old ones from the inner wings (no longer needed with the new harness) temporarily by making a slit and fitting over the new cable coming from the light. I plan to put new ones in over winter, by removing the connector so I don't need to slit the grommet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Se7enBTCC Posted December 29, 2021 Author Share Posted December 29, 2021 Thanks all, very interesting and helpful.Just realised I have no bracket in the box for the number plate led, brilliant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 That's annoying! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted December 29, 2021 Leadership Team Share Posted December 29, 2021 Re #6, if you phone Caterham for one, get them to drill the rivet holes the correct size for the supplies rivets ....Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 The worst thing for me on that score was that the 3 holes in the new bracket don't line up with the three holes of the old bracket. As I alluded to earlier, if you follow the CC directions you'll end up with a riddled rear chassis bar.I put one screw through the centre hole and decent 3M DST where the outer holes go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edmundo2 Posted December 29, 2021 Share Posted December 29, 2021 Checked my new kit and it too is minus the bracket...Thanks for the heads up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edo Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 I just asked caterham if they do an LED kit if you have the spare carrier. Given it is an option on the new car you would think so......Given all the messing about people have to do and taking a drill to a new car, I'm losing interest in the idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted December 30, 2021 Member Share Posted December 30, 2021 "I just asked caterham if they do an LED kit if you have the spare carrier."The answer was "No" in June. Some discussion of a possible fix in that thread.But I'm always in favour of checking. : - )Happy ChristmasJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 #11 other than the wings, which isn't too bad, it's possible to fit these without any more drilling. Certainly putting several extra holes in the chassis was a no go for me. As for the spare carrier, IMO it just needs a different bracket to mount the new plate light and a simple extension to the cable for that. Not excusing CC, you're right in what you say, but in the scheme of things it's an easy workaround. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edmundo2 Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 Yeah I was really surprised when they proposed drilling the chassis just to tag the cable out of the way? Ties looked a much better solution.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 Ties would be better but putting the harness over the tank is much better again, IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edo Posted December 31, 2021 Share Posted December 31, 2021 Unsurprising.They must have a plan for new orders with spare? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Six 7 Posted December 31, 2021 Share Posted December 31, 2021 Hi. I've got a 420S with a spare wheel on order for delivery in July and I've asked the question re the LED lights. So as and when I get an answer I'll let you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edo Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 Response: At the moment there isn't as there is a need for a new number plate bracket and subloom, both are being worked on in engineering so should hopefully not be too long. Regards Darren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uphillracer Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 Like others the LED kit arrived less the number plate light bracket AND also missing the lock rings for the loom plug that fits through the inner wing.Caterham sent the number plate bracket, had to drill and pop rivet to chassis, still awaiting lock rings, thats a month now!! So, Tuesday will be phoning them about that, also, LED kit installed, loom laid across tank, all the lights work, BUT no indicators or hazards???????? - Flasher relay ??? Any suggestions/advice. Tried the wiring/working the switches - no luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy.Whizz Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 You will have to fit a new relay, you can get one from JAL, that's what I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edo Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 Why can't caterham send everything required? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 2, 2022 Member Share Posted January 2, 2022 "BUT no indicators or hazards???????? - Flasher relay ??? Any suggestions/advice. Tried the wiring/working the switches - no luck."As above.It's common for older flasher units not to work or to flash slowly when incandescant lamps are replaced with LEDs. It happens because the load on the unit is lower.Here's JAL's replacement unit, and they're available from many other sources.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 The current draw of an LED bulb is about 20% that of an incandescent bulb with a similar light output, so a conventional relay using a bimetallic strip with a heating wire coiled around it to open and close the contacts in the relay, will flash about 25 times slower for one fifth the current (heating effect / energy produced is proportional to the square of the current). A solid state relay or one with a heating wire resistance about 5 times higher, will sort the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dixa1225 Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 With the CC supplied LED rear lights there should be no need to replace the relay hence not included in the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 I certainly didn't need to change the relay. How old is your car Uphillracer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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