Camber Gauge

[Beagler]

Bought the Gunsons Camber gauge and although it is for steel wheels there is an attachment for aluminium wheels.

The problem was when I checked the Camber both were 2 degrees instead of the 1 degree 20 min plus or minus 15 mins.

When I checked both items against a known vertical datum the gauge was out. I thought it was the additional tool but turned out to be the spirit level in the gauge. Removed the faceplate and thankfully the spirit level can be zeroed against the vertical datum.

Rechecking the camber on the front wheels established they are as near as dam it correct.

This is a good tool and accurate once its correct.

Hope this helps if you are contemplating buying one 

[Shortshift]

Biggest issue I've found when using devices similar to this is ensuring that the surface the car is sitting on is perfectly level to begin with...

James

[7 wonders of the world]

Throw a long bubble accross the floor and use this to calibrate the camber gauge with a square. I use aerosol caps as little stand offs to sit the bubble on.

or as I've had to do mark the floor for contact patches and make shims to ensure a level platform.

Beagler did you ballast the car prior to checking the camber...? if not you need to recheck it

[Shortshift]

Is a long bubble similar to a long weight (that used to feature quite a lot in my early career days)?

James

[Beagler]

They always had attached a Long Stand.

[Beagler]

Garage floor is level and full fuel. Followed instructions. Rear tyre wear is even so not bothered about rears. Front are little uneven, maybe road camber. Have a Trackrite Toe in gauge just arrived so need to check track.

[SLR No.77]

What toe in/out are you planning to have? Probably worth being aware that a car set up specifically for even tyre wear isn't necessarily a car that achieves the best handling ....

You're a lucky man if you're garage floor is level, it makes setting up much easier   Every garage I've had has had a decent fall towards the main door!

Stu.

[Beagler]

20 mins +- 10 Toe in.

 

[SLR No.77]

And before you set the tracking, have you set the ride height where you want it? (hence the reason for the mention of ballast)

[Beagler]

20 mins +- 10 Toe in.

 

[Beagler]

Ok with ride height. There's a part of the drive that's level so I'll check it on there too.

[Beagler]

Thanks for your input. 

[7 wonders of the world]

Ballast must include driver weight in appropriate position,

Using tyre wear alone is not a good indication of alignment......

[7 wonders of the world]

  we would send the apprentice for a glass hammer or a radiator for a beetle...... can't really use the later anymore....

[Beagler]

[Beagler]

Need to check tracking now. To keep toe in on turns correct, the trackrods need to be the same length. Where do people take the inboard measurement from.

[Beagler]

Found a datum point on the track rod and tried the Trackrite today. Got 0 degrees on O/S and .45minutes on the N//S. The driveway flags are not as even as they look also the tyres are slightly different tread depths. I think I will put new tyres on and then recheck.

Tyre depth is around 3.5 mm on both.

[Shortshift]

I'm not sure what you're doing here but I certainly wouldn't rely on any markings on the trackrods; there are just so many other variables and tolerances in the total steering system and connection to wheel that will affect and determine the outcome.

I'd propose that you start by making sure that the rack is centered - count number of turns from lock to lock, wind back from one end to the centre/straight-ahead position and then adjust the steering wheel so that it is straight-ahead at this point.  With spline adjustment available at each end of the column it should be possible to get quite close to straight-ahead, preferably exactly so.  Then adjust the trackrod lengths on each side of the car to set the total tracking to whatever you are after, making sure that the amount of toe-in/out is shared equally between each side of the car.  Then fine tune as necessary.

Make sense?

James

[Beagler]

The point on the trackrod is the machined shoulder where the threads for the trackrod end starts. The distance from there to the track rod end face where it screws to track rod is exactly the same both sides. I am happy the rack is central. As can be seen the tyrewear is quite even both sides so this is just a checking exercise rather than any specific problem. The car was Caterhams own and I have only done 100 miles since I got it in September.

[SLR No.77]

If you have exactly the same amount of threads showing and your tracking is correct, when you drive it the steering wheel is likely to not be centralised correctly, there has to be a compromise somewhere. This is what James was trying to explain.

I guess you'll find that out in the spring!

Stu.

[7 wonders of the world]

The uprights and steering arms are not what you'd refer to as precision engineering so you might want to look at those too....

after of course you have checked castor, camber, ride height and bump steer.....

[Shortshift]

Replying to #19

I think you have maybe missed my point, but never mind...

James

[revilla]

Are you really worrying about a 0.45 MINUTE imbalance measures across the two sides? I make that 0.075 degrees, which equates to 43 MICRONS across as 13" rim! That's around half the thickness of a human hair. Unless you've ballasted both seats to the precise weight of yourself and your intended passenger, and neither of you have eaten since, you're wasting your time.

[Beagler]

I appreciate your help guys. I am content with the present settings but asthe car is new to me I had to check plus its good practice for when I hit a pothole, a rare chance I know.