420R (S3) Radiator design issue, regular failures???

121 posts / 0 new
Last post
7 wonders of th...
Offline
Last seen: 31 min 20 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Mark, 

Understand your wish to keep it 'Factory' however having the car function correctly is far more important, and 'Factory' isn't always the best solution - there are many many examples of that, sadly new owners of new cars are used as an extended R&D facility.

Many members have had to angle grind the DeDion tube for clearence too......

Hope you get things sorted for the chippy run

Thumbup

Blue7
Blue7's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 7 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Mark #51, Good decision Thumb Up

Jonathan Kay
Jonathan Kay's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 49 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

What is the bobbin connected to?

Jonathan

ChrisC
Offline
Last seen: 20 hours 10 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

If I was faced with the same situation,  I wouldn't grind the classic bracket, I would enlarge the hole in the replaceable drop bracket, lifting the bobbin, therefore lifting the rad.  A guess you would also need to enlarge the bottom bobbin hole.  That would be reversible when you get a radiator replacement, with a cheap drop bracket. 

Blue7
Blue7's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 7 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Jonathan, it is shown in second photo in 1st post, it connects between radiator and drop bracket.  It has always intrigued me as to why a bobbin is necessary, I don't recall seeing them on my CSR but I will take a closer look next time the nose cone is removed.

ScottR400D
Offline
Last seen: 34 min 19 sec ago
Joined: 23/08/2015

#54 The bobbin's connected to the aluminium bracket welded to the side of the rad and to the drop extension of the chassis bracket. 

#55 Chris, I think the whole purpose of the drop extension was to lower the rad to get the nose to fit. What you suggest might work as long as the rad can be lifted without fouling the nose. 

Another option might be a slightly different extension that would move the rad sideways, but we don't know how tight a fit everything is under the nose. 

If the rad has to be exactly there, then the only choice seems to be to grind the bracket. 

L7C
Jonathan Kay
Jonathan Kay's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 49 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

"#54 The bobbin's connected to the aluminium bracket welded to the side of the rad and to the drop extension of the chassis bracket."

Thankyou.

Is there a fixed connection above that as well as as the bobbin connection?

Jonathan

Blue7
Blue7's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 7 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

The fixed connection above is to the top of the drop bracket and not the radiator.  In essence the drop bracket does exactly as described, it drops the radiator down but still uses the same connection points on chassis and radiator,  A neat solution apart from the design fault.

Jonathan Kay
Jonathan Kay's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 49 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Thankyou.

I know that I'm repeating myself but why not fix it this way?

Keep the existing position of the radiator and... 

"... how about cutting off the upturned end of the hanger, inverting it and welding or bolting it back so that it engages the bobbin directly?" 

And discarding the drop bracket. (And adding lightness!)

Jonathan

 

Blue7
Blue7's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 7 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

GM is an Accountant, your solution would work but would be more expensive in man  hours cutting and welding.  However, I think the main reason for the drop bracket is that it is an easy solution for the customer who would have a set of spanners but not hacksaw and welding equipment.  I know which option I would prefer

1. insert and bolt up the enclosed drop brackets

2. cut the upturned end off the existing brackets, invert them and weld them back in place, Mark would have to buy welding equipment from Screwfix and take a course in welding ... and not get his fish & chips Curse

The other problem with your solution Jonathan is that from the photos, it looks like the cut off end of the existing bracket would not be long enough, but I can't be certain.

Of course another solution would be to bend the existing brackets downwards with a big hammer, One of the most famous quotes in car ‘fettling’ - to a mechanic’s apprentice: “Don’t force it lad! Use a bigger hammer!” Biglaugh