Sterling Toad Immobiliser / Battery problem

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sjmmarsh
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Sterling Toad Immobiliser / Battery problem

You may have seen that on my way back from my annual service in November that I hit a bit of flooded road which went right over the car and dumped half a bucket of dirty water into the passenger and driver footwells. It is all dried out now and, last week, I thought I would take it out for a run in the milder weather.

Flat battery.

I jump started it using a leisure battery in the garage and it fired up OK - a bit lumpy as it had not run for 6 weeks, but it soon settled down to normal. When the engine came up to temperature and the fast idle cut out the engine just died. It would not restart as the immobiliser was still active. Nothing worked, so I took the battery home from the lockup to charge it up. It was holding 12.8V overnight but, at 4 years old, the voltage dropped to 12.4 when it went in the car. I still couldn't turn the immobiliser off.

New battery time - put it in the car and same result. 12.4V (turns out it is not fully charged) and the immobiliser still wouldn't turn off. I put the leisure battery across the new battery with jump leads and now the voltage in the car showed 13V (I have a plug in meter) and the immobiliser turned off and the car started no problem.

The new (Banner) is on to charge which should work (fingers crossed) but I am concerned that there is a dirty/damp connector somewhere that is reducing the voltage to the immobiliser which means at some point I could end up stranded if the battery voltage drops too far. It used to (just) start OK if the battery was only showing 12.4V and I have never had problems with the immobiliser refusing to disarm before this.

My next  test  will be to undo the immobiliser  to check for a bad earth and to check all the connectors on the ECUs on the bulkhead.

Should I be looking anywhere else?

it is a 2007 CSR 260.

Thanks 

Steve

 

Jonathan Kay
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I think that you're very wise to check those connectors and earths. I'd include the engine block earth(s).

Then I'd want to measure the minimum battery voltage during cranking and voltage during any rough running.

And even though you now have a new battery I'd check its fluid levels.

Jonathan

sjmmarsh
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Thanks Jonathan

The acid levels are fine. The voltage drop on the old battery was to around 8.5V (when it just started OK). The earth strap is worth looking at as well. Thanks

Steve

Jonathan Kay
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Yes, in order to avoid components dropping out it seems as if at least 10.5 V is necessary. (The surprising thing about Sevens is that they'll often crank at what seems to be an acceptable speed while the voltage drops below that.)

Jonathan

Tom_Arundel
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I had problems with the aerial and fob, they are worth checking (If you have them) I had to redo the aerial Smash

7 wonders of th...
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The white 2 pin aerial multiplug is a known weak point, I had intermittent times when it would not disarm, eventually got it to do it in the garage and gently started lightly poking things and this was the cause, I just put a little tension on the pins and perfect - so then cut the plug out and soldered it with heat shrink, 

 

sjmmarsh
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7 wonders - is the multi plug inside the box with the immobiliser or in the loom somewhere?

Steve

sjmmarsh
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7 wonders - is the multi plug inside the box with the immobiliser or in the loom somewhere?

Steve

sjmmarsh
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7 wonders - is the multi plug inside the box with the immobiliser or in the loom somewhere?

Steve

7 wonders of th...
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on the end of the loom where it meets the coiled up aerial usually just under the steering column