Crossflow facet fuel pump and fpr installation

30 posts / 0 new
Last post
Tazio
Tazio's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 min 22 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

This is how I wired mine.

Apologies for my poor drawing Whistle

Gridgway
Gridgway's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 42 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Thanks for the diagram!  Where did you run the 12v cable to the pump?  In the transmission tunnel?

rkeywood
rkeywood's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 40 min ago
Joined: 09/02/2021

I'm pretty sure the pump filter is only to protect the pump - they are only plastic screen and usually 75 (red body) or 200 micron (black body). The Filter King has a 10 micron pleated paper filter. It looks like the Sytec doesn't have a gauge point either so a Filter King might be a tidier option at not much extra cost, probably less than £80 if you shop around / use club discount for alloy body FPR007 with set up gauge loose. Incidentally unless you're going really OTT on power a Silver Top Comp' will save a few quid and is good for 200Hp (30GPH, 6-7 psi)

R

OldAndrewE
OldAndrewE's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 13 min ago
Joined: 29/04/2020

The Sytec FPR is fine and you could use an inline Sytec filter (glass bodied so you can see what is going on).  I have a similar FPR on my Mini (branded Purolator).  It could even be the same, just different branding.  I am told the numbers on it are not actual psi values, just a scale.  May be sensible to make provision to measure the fuel pressure.  On the Mini the FPR and filter are on the front bulkhead and I have a solid state Facet pump in the boot

As an alternative there are Filter King FPRs that have provision for a fuel pressure gauge.  So all 3 things in one unit

Andrew

1985 S3 1700 XFlow.  Undergoing full restoration

Tazio
Tazio's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 min 22 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

I ran the 12volt feed down the opposite side of the transmission tunnel to the fuel line, and as previously stated I had also ran a separate earth to the rear of the car from the earth point on the block to a stud on the rear panel so I could use that earth for all the electrical services at the rear of the car.

Alan

Tazio
Tazio's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 min 22 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Duplicate

Gridgway
Gridgway's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 42 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

back again, just got the motor back so need to get on and sort the fuel pump out!

The facet instructions say that the unions need to be sealed when screwed into the pump body.  Any recommendations for what to use?

Also I was going to use a right angle one for the outlet that points towards the tunnel.  Unfortunately, when done up to what feels like a sensible tightness, it is 180 degrees out.  Half a turn less and it's def too loose.  Is it a tapered fitting?  Any suggestions?  Other than use a straight fitting?

Thanks Graham

 

 

rkeywood
rkeywood's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 40 min ago
Joined: 09/02/2021

Hi Graham 

Loctite 577 thread sealant. 10--15 ft lbs for connections. Angled connections normal. If you need to 'loop' the pipes to fit then mount the pump so the inlet is the straightest

R

Gridgway
Gridgway's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 42 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Thanks very much.  I think I can mount it and use two straight unions with a very straight run out of the tank and a loop round to go forwards (if that makes sense)?

Graham