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That is posh. Well done but is the existing lampholder really goid enough for such sophistication?


Democratic dissent is not disloyalty, it is a positive civic duty

Thanks for your comment.

Well the main idea was just to make the indicators much brighter and while I was at it

"sequential" seems to be the "in" thing at the moment!

The image doesn't really show it bit it is VERY bright compared with the original bulb. (and so are the brake lights)

The lenses are quite cheap to replace and I didn't want to change the original look.

For some reason I can't see the gif but I do think that anything that brings our little cars into the realm of consciousness of the tin top drivers is a good thing. I assume you would be looking at this for wider production, I would be interested although I do think Stephen has a point that may need to be addressed.

Move fast, stay low.

Lovely! Sell idea to JAL? Or are you taking orders? :-)

No I'm  not taking orders but I'm happy to let any other geeks have circuit details!

Yes I was wondering if JAL had seen it.

Somehow I don't think the effort in "tooling up" for it would be worth their while;

especially in these weird times.

I was also wondering if anybody knows what the regulations are these days on the

allowed "power" of car lighting? 

Before LEDs came along the Regs stated 21W for indicator bulbs.

I think that 21 Watts of LEDs would burn the paint off following cars! 

So I assume the Regs now state the light output in Candela or Lumens.

Does anyone know?


Great idea Klive. I would be happy also to be a customer if you have the time and inclination to make some more but if not would very much like to receive a circuit diagram and spec for the components, and if possible where to purchase them. Can you please get in touch via email   Many thanks

Count me in as a geek....I see a new project coming on....

This sounds like a really good idea. Can you supply more details? I suspect you may get quite a lot of interest so maybe worth adding to this blog to avoid lots of individual responses if you are up for that? Any help / guidance would be most appreciated.

Tony Leigh

Well this is not for the feint hearted!

I didn’t expect members to actually consider building their own ones.

If you are familiar with some basic electronics and project construction then this should not be too difficult. If not, you will find this a bit daunting!!


There are several PCBs required……

1/  Stop/tail PCB  ( x2)

2/ Indicator PCB (x 2)

3/ Small PCBs for the 6 side facing indicator LEDs  ( x 4)

4/ Bought PCP for the sequencing circuitry (x2)

Like this one……    

It requires surface mount soldering which is fiddly.

May be someone sells them in the UK already built.

So when its all finished there is one board for the indicator (with the sequencer board piggy-backed on it)  and another board  for the stop/tail light.



Main PCBs (LED panels)

The led positions are important so the strips line up with the lens grooves.

This makes the vertical strips as bright as possible and all the same intensity.

The resistors are all 1/8 watt.

I used super bright White LEDs for everything. They are the brightest.

The lens covers seem to make them orange/red adequately.

I etched my own PCBs but the layout is so simple that you could solder everything up with single strand wire. They could be made on plastic sheet if you can’t make PCBs  (e.g. 2mm thick ABS or similar)

The Stop/Tail bit is relatively easy. It’s the indicator bit that gets interesting!

Soldering up the surface mount Ebay sequencer board kit is not easy!

I will put this up first and see if it puts you all off!



Many thanks for further explanation. Unfortunately this is beyond my soldering/electrical skill level (I have a soldering iron but it hasn't been used for years).

I'm up for giving things a go but I think you need to know your limitations.
Good luck to those who give it a go.

Tony Leigh

Anybody tell me why I can't 'see' the GIF on any of my devices? (iphone, ipad or Macbook - is it an Apple issue?)

Hmmm. Not sure why.

It works fine on a "normal" PC!

It's probably an Apple thing!

I will look into it

I have uploaded a new GIF.

May be that will work on Apple devices.

Thanks for trying Clive but sadly it hasn't made a difference, at least not for me on any of my (Apple) devices.  It's good of you to try to improve it but please don't waste any more time on it on my behalf!  I'll just have to try and imagine what it must be like!


OK just for you I have put up another image just for Apple users!!


Thank you Clive.  That does indeed work for me and I have to say it looks very impressive and effective.

These are excellent 

I only wish I could make a set !

tool up time !


OK - I'm off to build one....

Have you pic of the lights installed without the lens cover?





The lights are actually fitted inside the cover.

Here's a pic of my latest boards..

    . .

Hi Clive,

I've only just located this Blog, hence feeling like Im a little late to the party.

Anyhow, like you Im also a fan of "SEQUENTIAL REAR INDICATORS".and I think it looks great what you have done, a clever way of modernisation without messing with the original look.

I've also upgraded my rear lights (as well as front lights), but I have been "brave" and changed the original look, and whilst I appreciate this will be met with varying degrees of approval/disapproval - personally I prefer them to the original "Caravan" light boxes.

To see what I have done, here's a few links:

Rear lights

Front lights

Happy to hear what people think of the mods, plus happy to share details if of interest.

All the best


Hi Chris.

I can't believe that I didn't see your comment. For some reason I didn't get a "new message" flag.

So I'm sorry for the very late response!

Anyway I love the led strips. As you probably understand, I didn't want to alter the original look of mine but yours look really good.

Are they "off the shelf" or did you make them? And did they cover the original holes?

Cheers & keep safe




Hi Clive,

No problem at all.

Thank you for the kind words - unlike you I didn't make mine. They were a very cost effective (aka cheap) eBay purchase, last June I saw them listed for £19 inc posting :)

Unfortunately they don't quite cover the original holes but I added some "P" profile rubber which helped though still not perfect. 
Albeit, I'm replacing the rear wings hence will get that addressed this spring - hopefully before the Cadwell Trackday.

Ive attached a few pics to show the extent the covers are covered up, what to search for on eBay and the P profile was from Car Builder Solutions.


Hi Chris.

Thanks for that.

Do they still use the car's flasher unit or do they "time" themselves?

If you apply 12v to mine they do one run then stop. So the original flasher unit is left alone. Same applies to the hazard flasher unit.

Your front ones look interesting too. I also have front and wheel arch LEDs but not sequential ones.

I wanted to make them brighter than bulbs. They are all stupidly bright but its good for safety on a small car.

Its all good fun!!



They use the cars flasher relay - albeit I did replace the original with an adjustable WIPAC one, meaning I can adjust the speed of the sequential "flow". 

As you say all good fun. 

And totally agree - bright is better, rather be seen than get swiped out. 

As a side note - you might be interested in a different thread to in relation to changes I've made to my indicator switches, see "INDICATOR SWITCH WIRING - PLEASE HELP" for that mod I got the soldering iron out :D


I didn't find your "Indicator wiring..Please help" post. but I also fitted a low current indicator flasher unit.

BTW my front indicators are Amber LED spot light bulbs!!  They burn paint at 30 feet!!!

I find myself doing all sorts of mods and afterwards thinking "was that a want or a need" , "or just a lockdown experiment" !!

I finished another long on-going one recently. ...

I mage the start button intelligent and made it also the stop button.

The mod enabled the system to be keyless where the keyfob became the ign switch.

That was quite a challenge as it needs to know if the engine is running and/or if the last push was a stop or a start command. It also must not ever run the starter motor if the engine is running. It got quite complicated but I got it sorted eventually and it all fitted into a small box with minimal changes to the original wiring. 

Obviously its not really needed at all but kept me amused for ages!!

Cheers for now